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Browsing by category: perfume talk

Inside the Perfume Cabinet ~ Marie

Posted by Angela on 23 October 2017 30 Comments

Marie (not her real name) is a 44-year-old history professor in Virginia, married, and a mom of two boys, aged nine and five. So far, she sounds like a lot of us.

Her perfume history sounds familiar, too. Her first perfume was a sample of Nina Ricci Nina she sent away for in a magazine when she was 10. As an adult, she dabbled in the 1980s “Holy Trinity” of Calvin Klein Eternity, Christian Dior Poison, and Giorgio.

Where Marie diverges from many perfumistas is in how she stores fragrance, and, more interesting, her awareness of why she enjoys perfume…

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Les Parfums de Rosine Rose Nue ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 19 October 2017 9 Comments

Les Parfums de Rosine is a perfume line that generally “works” for me. It’s like an olfactory version of a favorite musical artist: I may not love everything they release, but I find most of their creations likable and wearable, so I give every new one a try. Rosine recently launched Rose Nue, described as a “skin perfume” combining rose with “a green and powdery accord.” Rose Nue was developed by perfumer Delphine Lebeau and its notes include tangerine, aldehydes, rose leaves, rose, heliotrope, vanilla, sandalwood, ambroxan, suede and musk.

Rose Nue was reportedly inspired by the Cuisse de Nymphe Emue rose; Cuisse de Nymphe Emue (“thigh of an aroused nymph”) is also, apparently, the name for a certain shade of blush pink…

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Cire Trudon Olim & Mortel ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 18 October 2017 15 Comments

St. Louis by the workshop of El Greco

I’m a Francophile when it comes to candles. Cire Trudon is part of my Candle Triumvirate; Astier de Villatte and Diptyque make up the others. (I’ve always been afraid to try Frédéric Malle candles…I have a feeling they’d expand my candle obsession and budget to an even crazier level.)

I was interested (that’s about the best I can muster these days in Perfumeland, no longer am I “thrilled” or “excited” about new launches) when I heard Cire Trudon had developed a personal fragrance line called Trudon (how many times did I wish one of Cire Trudon’s wonderfully scented room sprays or candles was a perfume?) I’m happy to report three of the first five perfumes pleased me, and today I’m reviewing two: Olim1 and Mortel2. Robin Here at NST beat me to my other favorite: Deux (II)…

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Annick Goutal Nuit et Confidences ~ fragrance review & a quick vanilla poll

Posted by Robin on 17 October 2017 101 Comments

Annick Goutal Nuit et Confidences brand image

tl;dr a decent middle of the road vanilla.

If you wanted a good illustration of the muddy distinction between niche and mainstream perfumery, you could hardly find a better example than Annick Goutal. The house mostly made its name with classic colognes like Eau d’Hadrien and Eau du Sud, and a handful of pretty feminine florals. When I reviewed Eau de Camille and Eau de Charlotte back in 2007, I noted that…

The Annick Goutal line occupies a rather in-between place among perfume fans — the company probably qualifies as niche based on their size and their limited distribution; still, they are available in a number of mainstream stores (three department stores in my local mall carry them),1 and the line doesn’t feel niche. The feminine perfumes are emphatically pretty, romantic even; they don’t, like so many niche perfumes, challenge traditional notions of what a woman ought to smell like.

What I perhaps didn’t emphasize enough was how few mainstream brands were making nicely done yet emphatically pretty fragrances at the time…

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Amouage Figment Woman ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 16 October 2017 27 Comments

Amouage Figment Woman brand image

Could 2017 be the year of the deconstructed tuberose? With Twilly d’Hermès, Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite, and, now, Amouage Figment Woman, I wonder.1

Perfumers Dorothée Piot and Karine Vinchon-Spehner developed Figment Woman. Its notes include Sichuan pepper, saffron, gardenia, tuberose, jasmine sambac, orange blossom, lisylang (a fractionated ylang ylang), cassia, orris, papyrus, patchouli and incense. Here’s Kevin’s review of this one’s partner, Amouage Figment Man…

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