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Browsing by category: perfume talk

Arquiste Infanta en flor ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 16 January 2017 10 Comments

The infanta Maria Theresa aged 14

On June 7, 1660, as part of the plan to end the Franco-Prussian Spanish war, the Spanish royal family gave infanta Maria Theresa of Spain to France as Louis XIV’s bride. The hand-off happened on joint territory, the Isle of Pheasants in the Bidasao river between France and Spain.

Nearly 350 years later, Arquiste’s founder and creative director Carlos Huber stood on the banks of the Bidasao and imagined the whole royal procession. In 2009, he began researching the meeting at the Isle of Pheasants and uncovered a wealth of aromas: iris from hair pomade; rice powder scented with orange flower; leather gloves; and, of course, the countryside’s arid herbal breeze.

He wrote a brief based on his research and handed it to perfumers Rodrigo Flores-Roux and Yann Vasnier…

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Ellis Brooklyn Rrose ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 12 January 2017 28 Comments

Belle Haleine Man Ray

As a New York City local, I’ve enjoyed observing the growing wave of independent fragrance lines based in the borough of Brooklyn. CB I Hate Perfume may have been one of the earlier and better-known names to set up shop, but now there are enough options to suit various tastes. One relative newcomer is Ellis Brooklyn, founded by Bee Shapiro, a former corporate lawyer and current beauty writer for The New York Times. I recently received a sample of Ellis Brooklyn’s Rrose in a Sephora order and gave it a try.

Rrose is a rose-centered “olfactive ode to Rrose Sélavy (a pun of Eros, C’est la Vie), the feminine alter ego of the author, artist and provocateur Marcel Duchamp.” It was developed for Ellis Brooklyn by perfumer Jérôme Epinette…

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Where’s the Musk? Aether Muskethanol & Mad et Len Red Musc ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 11 January 2017 17 Comments

My favorite musks smell animalic: wild, oily, hairy and sweaty. In a word: sexy. Such musks are an endangered species (much like many of their original animal sources). Whenever I’m asked what fragrance notes I hate, white “toddler” musks always get a mention (as do Calone and Iso E Super and Cashmeran). Yet, I can easily name you perfumes I own that contain each one of those ingredients and I absolutely love and wear these perfumes all the time. I enjoy Jardins d’Écrivains George and Hermès Eau de Gentiane Blanche — both contain white musk. All ingredients can be used masterfully to highlight or to augment other notes in a fragrance; white musk in the right hands (or Nose) is not juvenile, obnoxious, cloying, utilitarian — or readily apparent. But, to be frank, white musk is not ‘musk’ to me, and if a perfume house puts ‘musk’ in the name of a fragrance, I expect some colorful MUSK (not white fluff).

I was interested to try two new musk fragrances that found their way to me in December; these are the first perfumes I’ve smelled from the niche lines Aether and Mad et Len…

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Maria Candida Gentile Lankaran Forest ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 10 January 2017 28 Comments

Lankaran Forest at the 2nd Buta Festival of Azerbaijani Arts

Italian niche house Maria Candida Gentile’s latest release, Lankaran Forest, was originally developed as the “bespoke fragrance” for the 2nd Buta Festival of Azerbaijani Arts, held in London in 2015. For that event, set designer Francisco Rodriguez-Weil created a scene inside the Royal Academy of Arts (see above) recalling forests near the Azerbaijan city of Lankaran. Maria Candida Gentile based her fragrance on a tour of Azerbaijan, including those forests (known for their ironwood trees), as well as the Yanar Dag fire mountain, the Absheron peninsula, and the tea and citrus plantations near Lankaran. At the festival, the scent was diffused in the “forest”, and was presented in two concentrations in Lalique bottles.

For the 2016 commercial release under the Maria Candida Gentile label, Lankaran Forest moved into the regular brand packaging…

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Folie a Plusieurs The Lobster & Blow-Up ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Angela on 9 January 2017 37 Comments

Folie à Plusieurs The Lobster and Blow-Up

I’m tired of on-trend design. Especially if it’s bossy and difficult to navigate. Extra especially if it reads like an avant garde take on an American Apparel ad. “Get some imagination!” I want to scream. I’m so done with tiny font, nude tweens and vacant looks. Give me emotion, be honest, surprise me.

Plus, this kind of design makes me suspicious. I see a lot of sizzle, and instead of steak, I’m expecting a meat patty too small to make the cut at Barbie and Ken’s barbecue. It’s enough to drive me to comic sans and baskets of kittens.

So, to get to the point, I didn’t last ten seconds at the Folie à Plusieurs website before I jumped ship to Facebook to look for information on the brand…

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