• About
  • Login to comment
    • Bluesky
    • RSS
    • Twitter

Now Smell This

a blog about perfume

Menu ▼
  • Perfume Reviews
  • New Perfumes
  • Archives
Browsing by category: perfume talk

Jean Patou Moment Supreme ~ perfume review

Posted by Angela on 3 April 2017 29 Comments

Jean Patou Moment Suprême, vintage advert with background extended

Pardon the name-drop, but a little more than three years ago, through a lucky set of circumstances, I met Thomas Fontaine, the Jean Patou house perfumer.1 For me, it was an amazing afternoon of seeing what a real perfumer’s lab looks like, tasting jasmine and rose Pierre Hermé macarons, and talking fragrance with someone who lives and breathes a world I’ve mostly only read about.

One thing in particular sticks in my memory. Talking about Joy, Fontaine mentioned walking past women — mostly older women — in the street and inhaling their lush, complex sillage, “like a fur.” He described this style of fragrance as “old fashioned.” I bet Fontaine would say the same thing about Moment Suprême…

Read the rest of this article »

Jo Malone Tobacco & Mandarin ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 29 March 2017 36 Comments

Jo Malone Tobacco & Mandarin

Inspired by the free-spirited artists of the legendary Bloomsbury group—writers, philosophers and intellectuals, most notable among them Virginia Woolf—this collection of scents captures the intoxicating essence of an unconventional life in their legendary country house in the Bloomsbury area. Each bottle in the collection is hand painted. —Nordstrom

As we perfumistas know, inspirations for scents rarely translate into realistic representations: “This perfume is SO Virginia Woolf!” That’s fine…we can still enjoy the resulting perfume even if it’s not catty, depressed, inhibited, or a genius. But why can’t Nordstrom get the country house right in the PR above? The Bloomsbury area of metro London is NOT the country and the houses there associated with the Bloomsbury group are on Gordon Square. You have to travel 90 minutes outside London to see THE country house of the Bloomsbury set: Charleston farmhouse…

Read the rest of this article »

Two for Tuesday: Durga by DS & Durga, Don’t Tell Jasmine by Vilhelm Parfumerie

Posted by Robin on 28 March 2017 27 Comments

Reviews of two recent florals: Durga by DS & Durga and Don’t Tell Jasmine by Vilhelm Parfumerie.

Durga by DS & Durga

If you asked me what notes I’d like you to add to “palatial doses of the finest floral absolutes”, melon and chrysanthemum would not be high on my list of suggestions…

Read the rest of this article »

Dana Ambush ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 27 March 2017 30 Comments

Dana Ambush, vintage advert with background extended

In perfumery, lavender has mostly been set aside for men’s scents — for fougères in particular. Lavender-focused fragrance marketed to women is scarce enough that we can practically count them on one hand: Christian Dior Dune (the moody stalwart), Jean Patou Moment Suprême (the one that got away) and Vero Profumo Kiki (the new standard). You might be able to toss in a few others. To this list, I’ll add the original Dana Ambush.

Ambush, created by the legendary perfumer Jean Carles, launched in 1955…

Read the rest of this article »

Top 10 Spring Fragrances 2017

Posted by Kevin on 24 March 2017 59 Comments

Audubon, American Robin

1946: French writer Colette went to Switzerland, where she would undergo treatment for severe and painful arthritis. She was delighted to find that the sparrows around her lodgings in Geneva were tame. They flew into her room from the balcony, slept under her bed, ate from her hands. They would even chirp protests when she would lock them out of the bathroom as she bathed. One day she found a pair of sparrows snuggling in a fold of her bedspread. She startled them and they flew away. Colette wrote:

This gave me fair warning that the time was not far off when I should discover one individual among their small, indefinite band, the particular one, the one who preferred me and was mine by preference. With the animal world, we are subject to the same perils every time. To choose, to be chosen, to love: the very next moment we are beset by anxiety, the danger of loss, and the fear of spreading regret. What an array of big words when the subject is but a sparrow! Yes, a sparrow. In love, there is never a question of smallness. 1

A perfect segue to the love for, and smallness of…perfumes…

Read the rest of this article »

« Newer articles
Older articles »

Advertisement

Search

Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

Blogroll

Bois de Jasmin
Grain de Musc
Perfume Posse
The Non-Blonde
More blogs...

Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
11 Cheap Perfumes Beauty Outsiders Love

Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

Upcoming

List of upcoming Friday projects

6 January ~ damage poll

31 January ~ winter reading poll

Back to Top

Home
Archives
About Now Smell This :: Privacy Policy
Perfume Reviews
New Perfumes
General Perfume Articles
The Monday Mail

Glossary of Perfume Terms
Perfume FAQ
Perfume Books

Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

Copyright © 2005-2026 Now Smell This. All rights reserved.