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Browsing by category: perfume talk

Hermes Eau des Merveilles Bleue ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 11 April 2017 49 Comments

Hermès Eau des Merveilles Bleue, brand image, sliced

It would appear that Hermès is doing a flanker to 2004’s Eau des Merveilles every so often, but waiting at least two years, sometimes more, between iterations. In addition to the original, we’ve now got Elixir des Merveilles (candied orange peel + vanilla biscuit) from 2006, Eau Claire des Merveilles (citrus soda + cosmetic powder) from 2010, and L’Ambre des Merveilles (amber + more amber) from 2012. Eau des Merveilles Bleue is the latest, and the first from house perfumer Christine Nagel. I was only middling excited about it, because it’s blue. I like the color, but in fragrance, blue implies a particular smell-meaning, and in this case the description followed the color-coding: “the magic of the ocean and the colour of the sky”, plus “washed in sea spray” and “the taste of water on pebbles”. That sounds suspiciously like many other blue fresh, sporty, aquatic / ozonic fragrances, which are not generally my cup of tea.

And so it turns out…

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Alber Elbaz par Frederic Malle Superstitious ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 10 April 2017 95 Comments

Frédéric Malle and Alber Elbaz for Superstitious

Who here likes old-fashioned aldehydic florals? I do. I love their whiff of silk stockings, champagne and evenings at the opera. I adore how tidy and elegant these fragrances are compared to my messy, cat-hair fluffed life. I even appreciate the genre’s inscrutability to the general public weaned on fruit, soliflores and patchouli.

If you’re like me, you’ve been impatient to smell Frédéric Malle Superstitious, classified by the company as a “grand aldehyde floral…”

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5 perfumes: vetiver fragrances for spring

Posted by Robin on 7 April 2017 62 Comments

Vetiver mat

It’s April, and we ought to be having spring weather, but so far, it’s been elusive at best, at least in my neck of the woods. After a warmer than usual winter, we’re having a colder than usual spring (I’ve got my heat on today, again). All the same, it’s time for the spring vetiver list (I’ve already done summer, fall and winter, and I’m now accepting votes in the comments for what note, fragrance family or style to do next). As always, the line between the seasons is perhaps a bit arbitrary and/or personal, but for spring we’re looking for versatility: not so heavy as winter, not so light as summer, able to work in nearly any weather, perhaps a bit more lighthearted than the fall list? And as always, do add your own picks in the comments!

Parfums DelRae Panache: I think of Panache as a kinder, gentler riff on Serge Lutens Chêne, with vetiver mingling with the oak and rum…

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Raw Spirit Mystic Pearl ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 6 April 2017 5 Comments

Raw Spirit Mystic Pearl brand images

We had an unseasonably warm day last weekend — or maybe it actually was seasonably appropriate weather, who knows anymore? — and I suddenly didn’t want to wear any of my dusky rose-and-patchouli or powdery rose-and-violet perfumes. I reached for my box of recently arrived samples and chose Raw Spirit Mystic Pearl, “a fresh floral fragrance with a salty ozonic top note” that is “inspired by the mystical island of Bali and the pristine waters of the South Seas, home to the magnificent Queen of Pearls, the Pinctada.”

I happen to love pearls; the pearl is my birthstone, and I have a few favorite pieces of jewelry that incorporate pearls…

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Spring Citrus: Atelier Cologne Clementine California & Citron d’Erable ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 5 April 2017 31 Comments

Citrus nobilis

Atelier Cologne fragrances are stacking up. In 2016, they released 10 perfumes, and as of this writing, I count 32 fragrances for sale on their website (that’s 32 fragrances released in under SEVEN years). Diptyque has been around almost 60 years and has about the same number of fragrances (not counting discontinuations) as Atelier Cologne. Frédéric Malle (10 years older than Atelier Cologne) has not broken the 30 mark (it sells 26 fragrances). But what a difference! Diptyque and Frédéric Malle sell some sensational, memorable perfumes. Atelier Cologne? Not really.

As the years have gone by, Atelier Cologne has developed a recognizable style: the perfume equivalent of the Lacoste polo shirt…

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And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
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Favorite posts

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How to get fragrance samples
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