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Browsing by category: perfume talk

Pierre Bourdon Sous les Magnolias and La Fin d’un Ete ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 28 August 2017 21 Comments

I’m a sucker for anything vintage, including vintage perfume. The problem with old things is exactly what makes them so charming: they’re not new. Vintage dresses are sewn with cotton or silk thread that gives, and fabric that shreds with age. An old pulp novel with a gorgeously lurid cover too often has yellowed pages that barely cling to the spine. Similarly, a vintage fragrance, although dream-inspiringly old fashioned, won’t smell as lively as it did when it first left the store shelf fifty years ago.

So, I was especially happy to get to know Pierre Bourdon Sous les Magnolias and La Fin d’un Eté. These fragrances have the charm and character of a vintage Edmond Roudnitska perfume, but they smell crisp and fresh. I can’t remember the last time I bought new perfume, but I came home from Paris with a bottle of each…

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Twilly d’Hermes ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 25 August 2017 30 Comments

The background: Twilly d’Hermès is the latest fragrance launch from Hermès. It’s aimed at young women and was inspired by the freedom and creativity with which they “transform” Hermès scarves, and “appropriate Hermès’ codes to do other things”.1 A twilly, in case you don’t know (or care) from scarves, is the brand’s long thin silk scarf (see example here), and indeed people wear them all sorts of ways: as neck scarves, as headbands, as belts, as purse accessories, etc. At the moment, a 32″ x 2″ Twilly runs $160 in the US.

The juice: Hermès house perfumer Christine Nagel decided she would likewise “transform” or “twist” her raw materials…

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Parfums de Nicolai Rose Royale ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 24 August 2017 15 Comments

Rose at Le Palais Royal

Earlier this year, French niche line Parfums de Nicolaï launched Rose Royale, a soliflore rose fragrance inspired by the gardens of Paris’s Palais-Royal. Perfumer Patricia de Nicolaï, who developed it with her son Axel de Nicolaï, describes it as a “delicate” scent, a “natural and fresh rose with a hint of fruity notes.”

Rose Royale’s notes include black currant bud, passion fruit, bergamot, rose, coriander, ambrette seed, immortelle, sandalwood, guaiac wood and musk. Sounds like a lot going on for a solifore, right? — but on my skin it made sense…

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Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakelite ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 23 August 2017 24 Comments

When it comes to perfume inspirations, designer Naomi Goodsir had an original one: bakelite — one of the first plastics. I admit to laughing as I read Nuit de Bakélite1 PR materials (Goodsir collects bakelite objects). But who am I to laugh? I’d happily work with perfumer Isabelle Doyen myself if she’d help me turn some favorite things into gorgeous perfume. Isabelle, let’s create Jour d’Essence de Térébenthine2or La Grotte des Boules de Mites3. Just this week Angela here at NST reviewed a perfume made with concrete in mind!

Bakelite is, in fact, an honored substance…

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Comme des Garcons Concrete ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 21 August 2017 30 Comments

Comme des Garçons Concrete brand image

Comme des Garçons’ latest fragrance is called Concrete. But Comme des Garçons says the fragrance isn’t about concrete at all — it’s a deconstructed sandalwood. It’s also supposed to evoke New York City. So, which is it?

None of these, if you ask me. To me, Concrete is a sweet and creamy, yet industrial-smelling fragrance, sort of like warm custard in a wet alley near freshly plastered walls…

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