Following a path through the olfactory universe of hesperidia led me into a vast world, dotted with surprises, with citrus fruits. Finger lime, Buddha’s hand fruit, Eureka lemon…. So many unusual varieties of citrus appealed to me, but it was the smoky and distinguished black lime that finally stood out as the key note. — Christine Nagel

When Hermès announced Eau de Citron Noir I was thrilled. It was (maybe) full of things I love: citrus galore, black tea, guaiac wood. My nose itched for a sniff but, wisely, I didn’t just up and buy Eau de Citron Noir before smelling it. It has become my most recent and glaring example of the distance between desire and description — and reality.

Black lime (the dried fruit) as a perfume note intrigued me the most. These hard, charcoal-colored limes are used in Middle Eastern cuisine, and have a complex aroma: musty, fermented, charred, sweet and sour (think citrus-and-sugar-spiked rice vinegar); they smell like the inside of a well-used, wooden Indian spice box that’s held a variety of spices for decades…

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