This summer I came across the entire Serge Lutens Collection Noir in a boutique where I could smell them at my own pace and in peace. In this repackaged collection reside many of my favorite Lutens’ fragrances; I’ll name just two: Ambre Sultan and Chergui. As I sniffed, something was wrong. First, I felt the bottles; they were not hot to the touch. Next, I gauged their placement; no way the sun could reach them. Then I inspected the packaging closely: were these knock-offs? (Didn’t seem to be; the store I was in is respected.) I realized the bad perfume I was experiencing was likely due to recent reformulations and I’m guessing we can’t blame IFRA this time around but, perhaps, a cynical, budget-cutting philosophy at Shiseido. Who knows?
Ambre Sultan has lost all its glory…
