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Browsing by category: perfume talk

Astier de Villatte Ambre Liquide ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 28 February 2025 21 Comments

Drawn straight from the fantastical Middle Ages and the legendary pomander – that perfume-jewel used to ensure good health for body and soul – Ambre Liquide, like a precious talisman, exhales a marvelous amber, vanilla and slightly sweet scent with mystical, comforting powers.

Reinterpreted today by Dominique Ropion from an incredible recipe dating from 1348, rich in fragrant ingredients to ward off the Black Death and the forces of evil, its intensely fragrant formula immediately transports us to another world. —  Astier de Villatte

For many of us, a ‘pomander’ is a fresh orange studded with cloves (the dried unopened flower buds of the Syzygium aromaticum tree). To express my own opinion on pomanders, I’ll take the liberty of tweaking Greta Garbo’s first spoken line onscreen in the 1930 film Anna Christie — “Gimme a pomander, lots of cloves on the sides, and don’t be stingy, baby!”1 In other words, if you’re going to go easy on the cloves, don’t bother making a pomander!

From the late 14th century thru the 17th century, a pomander (pomme d’ambre) could be a clove-studded orange, a spice-filled orange or cloth bag, an apple-shaped item formed from ground and heated resins mixed in rose water and coated in musks and spices, or a piece of jewelry that housed fragrant perfume materials…

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Anna Sui Thorn of a Rose, Utopia Mist & Mystic Luna ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 7 February 2025 13 Comments

If you were to travel back in time twenty years or so and see what I was doing on a random weekday afternoon, you might find me browsing at Parfumerie Douglas in West Philadelphia. I might have been buying a nail file or a sparkly hair clip, and I was certainly sniffing my way through the perfume section, especially a shelf holding Sui Dreams, Sui Love and, best of all, Anna Sui’s eponymous debut fragrance from 1999. That powdery rose scent in its black-and-purple, rose-embellished bottle is still a favorite of mine.

Anna Sui recently celebrated the twenty-fifth anniversary of her brand’s foray into fine fragrance by launching a quintet of new scents: the Wild Wonder collection. All five were developed by perfumer Jérôme Épinette, who has worked on Sui’s fragrances since 2017’s Fantasia, and the face of the collection is Scarlett White, the daughter of model and singer-songwriter Karen Elson. Elson herself is a longtime Sui “muse,” and there’s a feeling of generational continuity with the packaging for Wild Wonder, as well: the gilt rosebud cap is shaped just like the black rosebud cap of the original Anna Sui perfume (now known as Anna Sui Classic)…

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The Monday Mail on Tuesday ~ help Nik find a new fragrance

Posted by Robin on 21 January 2025 25 Comments

Nik lives in “dreary London” and has the January blues at the moment…he is dreaming of the Portuguese and Greek coasts where he usually goes for holidays. He wants to find a summer citrus with a little more lasting power than the usual hour or so that most summer citruses can muster, and he’d like something a little more interesting going on beneath the bonnet/hood. Probably he’d like something newer on the market, but he’s open to suggestions.

The perfect scent would be a “bracing spritz of citrus, dry, with an interesting backbone”, and he’d like to keep the cost at around £100 ($122) if possible.

Can we help?

Here is what we know about Nik…

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Cra-yon Art Life, Snif Natural Talent & Maison Millais New York Nostalgia ~ short fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 12 December 2024 4 Comments

Way back in January 2021, Kevin wrote that 2020 had been the year of overpriced, overhyped scents: “Never have I smelled so many $250, $350, $450 perfumes that reminded me of $10 scented candles.” Based on various online “gift guides” that have scrolled past my eyes lately, I can’t say that late 2024 is looking any different. I’m less and less impressed by arbitrarily high prices. Here at NST we’ve been saying “under $100 is the new ‘free'” since 2009; in that spirit, here are three fragrances I’ve encountered over the past year or so that live up to their descriptions, feel accessible to scent-curious shoppers and sell for less than $100 for a full-sized bottle. 

First: I initially came across the Cra-yon fragrance line at the Liberty department store in London and made a mental note to find out more later. Cray-on started showing up in the United States soon after that trip, and I picked up a bottle of Art Life at a perfume swap event in New York. (Swap meet-ups are the Gen Z version of the early-2000s message-board swaps!) Cra-yon was “founded  by Christine and Niclas Lydeen, French/Swedish fragrance pioneers” and comes across as a welcoming, upbeat brand that doesn’t take its own cool-kid vibes too seriously…

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Regime des Fleurs Fleur Eclair, Arquiste Almond Suede & Isabelle Larignon Milky Dragon ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 22 November 2024 12 Comments

Good evening, Now Smell This: it has recently come to my attention (to paraphrase actor Drew Droege playing “Chloé Sevigny”) that I crave gourmand perfumes. At least, that’s what a dozen “trend pieces” have recently told me. The trend cycle goes around and around, of course: people have liked wearing vanilla-accented and/or sweet-smelling fragrances for a long time, whether you look back a century to Guerlain Shalimar or just twenty-odd years to Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar, Aquolina Pink Sugar and Britney Spears Fantasy (with its then-novel “cupcake accord”). Where to begin, if you’re curious about some of the latest gourmand scents? New releases are spawning at an unprecedented rate these days, and I can’t even pretend to be fully up-to-date, but here are two freshly “baked” fragrances that I’m enjoying, plus one from 2021 that has also captured my imagination. 

I’ve been trying for a while to make the term “fleurmand” catch on, but it hasn’t, which is a shame because I’d love to use it here to describe Régime des Fleurs Fleur Éclair…

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