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Browsing by category: perfume talk

Penhaligon’s Castile ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 14 August 2019 26 Comments

I first smelled Penhaligon’s Castile scent when a friend who had traveled to London brought me back a box of three Castile soaps. I always chuckle (and then become wistful) when I think of Castile. The bars of soap in that gift box had been lightly nibbled by my friend’s English bulldog, Bella. When I met Bella (right before pet-sitting her), I patted her rump…which was a HUGE no-no. She raised her hackles, barked loudly and LONG — facing me, then the ceiling, then me again — and circled the room menacingly, like a boxer assessing the opponent. When she calmed down, she ignored me. She wouldn’t even take a treat from my fingers. I did not exist; I was crude and I had broken her protocols.

The early days of dog-sitting Bella were tense. When I sat in a chair or on the sofa, she would climb onto the backs of those and stare down at me…

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Parfums MDCI Promesse de l’Aube ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 12 August 2019 44 Comments

What distinguishes a Count from a waiter? What makes a princess? The nature of nobility is one of the questions raised in A Gentleman in Moscow by Amor Towles.1 Perfume lovers might torque the question to “How does a classic French perfume differ from a department store floral?” and “Is it worth it?”

Parfums MDCI Promesse de l’Aube would certainly be listed in Debrett’s Peerage, if the book extended to fragrance…

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Amouage Portrayal Woman ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 9 August 2019 22 Comments

I have to confess that I haven’t been keeping up with Amouage very well lately. My interest in Luxury-with-a-capital-L fragrance houses, never too intense in the first place, has dwindled over recent years; meanwhile, Amouage’s pace of new releases has been fast and furious. The fragrance duo of Portrayal Woman and Portrayal Man, in their matching iridescent white bottles, was launched back in April and I’ve just had a chance to try a sample.

Portrayal Woman, developed for Amouage by perfumer Annick Menardo, is “an olfactive portrayal of the 1920s cultural liberation” with a “playful refinement” and notes of jasmine, tuberose, “Craven A tobacco accord,” elemi and vanilla. I don’t know whether I understand the 1920s reference; I don’t associate big white florals with that era as much as I do with the 1940s (Fracas, Billie Holiday with gardenias in her hair, etc.). In any case, Portrayal is a classical white floral…

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Maison Martin Margiela Replica Whispers in the Library ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 1 August 2019 17 Comments

Whispers in the Library is a recent addition to the Maison Martin Margiela Replica fragrance collection; it “evokes the memory of a mysterious library made of antique woodwork perfectly waxed. The slowing down of time between books and the whispers of turning pages.” Its remembered or imagined setting is “Oxford 1997” and it’s categorized as an “oriental woody” scent for men or women.

I’ve spent a significant portion of my adult life in libraries — in graduate school, during dissertation research, and in various jobs — and I love the idea of a perfume inspired by libraries and old books…

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5 perfumes: A Summer Vetiver-fest

Posted by Kevin on 31 July 2019 21 Comments

What’s more wonderful than the scent of vetiver? Of the “Fragrance Notes I Cannot Live Without”, vetiver is in the top five. I started my vetiver love affair with one of the best vetiver colognes: vintage Guerlain Vetiver (to my nose, the contemporary version is wimpy and less vetiver-y than its old self). Other vetiver fragrances that won my heart were Etro Vetiver (discontinued), Frédéric Malle Vétiver Extraordinaire, Chanel Sycomore and Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Route du Vetiver (ummm ummmm ummmmmmm). But that list is skimpy; my vetiver beaus are too numerous to list here.

In June I ordered samples of some new(ish) vetiver perfumes, hoping that one or two might inspire lust…

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