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Browsing by category: perfume books

If There Ever Was… a book of extinct and impossible smells, by Robert Blackson ~ perfume books

Posted by Marcello on 23 October 2008 25 Comments

If There Ever Was by Robert BlacksonWhat does communism smell like? How about the Sun, or Cleopatra’s perfume, or the atomic blast that destroyed the city of Hiroshima? This booklet, published on the occasion of the exhibition If There Ever Was, attempts to bring distant, elusive, and sometimes impossible olfactory experiences to life. Curator Robert Blackson commissioned thirteen fragrances from eleven perfumers and smell artists, including Bertrand Duchaufour, Christophe Laudamiel, Christoph Hornetz, Mark Buxton, Sissel Tolaas, and Geza Schön. If, like me, you missed the show at the Reg Vardy Gallery, this booklet gives you a chance to smell them all in the comfort of your own home.

Each scent of the exhibition is encapsulated in a scratch-n-sniff card, and comes with a short explanatory text. What these fragrances have in common is that they all refer to objects that are absent from our experience: they represent things that are temporally and/or spatially remote. There are no traces, for instance, of the original recipe to Cleopatra’s perfume; we can only guess what it really smelled like…

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Reader discount on Roja Dove’s upcoming book

Posted by Robin on 11 September 2008 Leave a Comment

Roja Dove Essence of PerfumeAs previously reported, Roja Dove's new book, The Essence of Perfume, is being published this month:

The Essence of Perfume is a lavishly illustrated journey through the history of perfume, taking in the glamour and scandal of the industry as well the science behind iconic scents. Perfume has always been an exclusive industry, from its early days with France quickly claiming the title as the premier centre of the perfume industry…

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Updates to Perfumes: The Guide

Posted by Robin on 30 August 2008 57 Comments

Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez have released the first of a projected series of quarterly updates to Perfumes: The Guide, and are offering the first issue as a free download:

Each newsletter reviews about 100 perfumes. The first free issue includes some fragrances missing in the original guide, as well as new brands. Future issues will discuss favorite discontinued perfumes and give our point of view on perfume history, culture, and developments.

You can find it here. My absolute favorite line after a very quick skim-through this morning, from the review of Guerlain's recent Cruel Gardenia:

Would be perfect if the spray button said "sucker" each time you press it.

What the Nose Knows by Avery Gilbert ~ perfume books

Posted by Marcello on 16 August 2008 8 Comments

Avery Gilbert, What the Nose KnowsAvery Gilbert has a long track record in the field of smell psychology. His research papers have been published in renowned academic journals since the 1980s, and he has been a consultant to many large firms in the fragrance industry. What the Nose Knows is his first book, and deals with the psychology of odor perception. Piet Vroon and Rachel Herz have written very accessible books on this subject, but their work was primarily focused on the relation between olfaction, emotion and behavior. Gilbert's main mission is a different one: to challenge the assumption that the human nose is somehow inferior to that of other species. “Dogs have great noses,” he writes in the chapter on olfactory prodigies, “but it's time to stop the trash talk and give ourselves more credit” (p.63). His message is simple: there's nothing wrong with our nose, we're just not very good at using it.

Since the days of Charles Darwin (1809-1882) and Havelock Ellis (1859-1939), the notion that humans have a poor sense of smell has been more or less taken for granted. Scientists agreed that olfaction had lost its importance to humans from an evolutionary perspective, and that it was barely of use to modern man. In recent years, however, neurobiologists and sensory physiologists have gained better insights into the inner mechanisms of our nose…

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Diptyque by Elisabeth de Feydeau ~ perfume books

Posted by Marcello on 1 July 2008 Leave a Comment

Diptyque by Elisabeth de Feydeau

Diptyque (2007), written by perfume author Elisabeth de Feydeau, is perhaps best described as a tribute to three friends who got together by chance, and went on to create a business with a very distinct signature. Although they came from different backgrounds, they shared a passion for art and design, and had the same views on aesthetics and presentation. This beautifully illustrated book traces back the history of Diptyque and its founders, giving an elaborate reconstruction of one of the most remarkable cult brands in perfumery.

Desmond Knox-Leet, Yves Coueslant and Christiane Gautrot opened their first shop in 1961, on the Boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris, where they initially sold plain and printed furnishing fabrics. The former lingerie store at number 34 was located near Place Maubert, and just a few steps away from the Piscine Pontoise, a well-known public swimming pool. That corner of the fifth arrondissement (Left Bank) was still a working-class area in those days, which meant that it was affordable for young entrepeneurs…

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