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Browsing by tag: vetiver

The Different Company Sel de Vetiver fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 9 May 2006 26 Comments

Sel de Vetiver by The Different Company fragranceThe Different Company Sel de Vetiver fragrance bottle

Sel de Vetiver is the sixth fragrance release from the niche house The Different Company, and the second entry by perfumer Celine Ellena, who took over after her father Jean Claude Ellena became house nose at Hermès. Sel de Vetiver has notes of grapefruit, cardamom, Bourbon geranium, lovage, Haitian vetiver, patchouli, iris and ylang ylang.

Sel de Vetiver opens on grapefruit, very pale and soft and lightly sweetened. The patchouli, though subdued in any case, is more noticeable in the top notes than later in the dry down, and there is a green herbal undertone that adds some liveliness to the early stages. As it settles, it gets warmer, dryer and earthier, and in keeping with its name, saltier.

The “scent of salt drying on the skin after bathing in the sea” was given as one of Celine Ellena’s inspirations for the fragrance, and that description is as apt as any: the dry down smells very much like saltwater drying on sun-warmed skin. If I close my eyes and inhale deeply, I can make out a bit of cardamom, but for the most part, the glimmer of liveliness in the opening is smoothed over into something more quiet and hushed, in which no one note really stands out on its own…

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Le Labo Vetiver 46 & il Profumo Vetiver de Java ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Robin on 19 April 2006 18 Comments

il Profumo Vetiver de Java fragranceLe Labo Vetiver 46

Le Labo Vetiver 46 and il Profumo Vetiver de Java, like yesterday’s Vetyver by Parfums de Nicolaï, are not unadorned renditions of vetiver: if you want the root, straight up and simple, you’ll have to look elsewhere. Vetyver highlighted vetiver’s earthy green properties with strong spices; in the two fragrances considered here, the focus is on wood notes.

Vetiver de Java is from il Profumo, the Italian perfume house created by Silvana Casoli. It has notes of lavender, vetiver, birch, incense, red rose, Cashmere cypress, gaiac wood and oak moss. The opening is a burst of lavender, slightly harsh, with a touch of citrus. It settles into a mild blend of mossy-earthy woods, tinged green, with occasional drifts of incense smoke and a bit of rose hovering just underneath the surface…

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Fragrance review: Vetyver by Parfums de Nicolai

Posted by Robin on 18 April 2006 27 Comments

Vetiver grass

Parfums de Nicolaï launched Vetyver for men in 2004. The fragrance includes notes of vetiver, cumin, black pepper, clove, coriander, ylang ylang, jasmine and tonka bean absolute.

Vetyver opens on juicy citrus notes overlaid with heavy spices. The cumin is quite strong, but the effect is moderated by the pepper, clove and coriander; despite my general hatred for cumin in fragrance, I didn’t find it unpleasant here. Mind you, I didn’t love it, but I didn’t find it unpleasant. The spices get drier and dustier as the citrus fades, and while they do calm somewhat, Vetyver stays quite spicy straight through the dry down. It is not quite so curried as say, Christian Dior Eau Noire, but it does have a mild Indian food vibe…

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Perfume & lasting power: a lament

Posted by Robin on 24 January 2006 52 Comments

Prague clock

Last night I sat down to finish off a review of one of my favorite fragrances by Jo Malone, Black Vetyver Café. Here is part of what I wrote:

Black Vetyver Café starts with dark coffee beans, freshly ground and almost-but-not-quite bitter, with a woody-nutty undertone. There is a faint trail of dry, smoke-free incense, and hints of pepper and light spices. Over the next 15 minutes, the coffee fades and the vetiver and woods intensify…

I love those first 15 minutes of Black Vetyver Café, but eventually gave up on finishing the review. There isn’t much more to say. The fragrance doesn’t entirely disappear after 15 minutes, but its glory is pretty much over by 30, and what remains after an hour is too bland to talk about at any length…

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Comme des Garcons series 4: Cologne

Posted by Robin on 12 January 2006 17 Comments

Comme des Garcons cologne series

Comme des Garçons released Series 4: Cologne in 2002. Each of the three fragrances is a variation on the classic citrus-based cologne theme.

Anbar is the Arabic word for amber, and the fragrance has notes of amber, mandarin, orange blossom, lavender, clove and musk. It starts with bright citrus notes, and settles quickly into a mild blend with a whisper of dry orange blossom over pale amber undertones. It has a touch of spice, but overall, it is more bright than dark. The lasting power is fine considering the strength, and it is nicely done, but for the moment I am not captivated so I am setting my sample aside for another try in the summer…

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