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Browsing by tag: tuberose

Perfume review: Carnal Flower by Frederic Malle

Posted by Robin on 3 January 2006 54 Comments

Tuberoses

Carnal Flower is the latest fragrance release from Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums. Perfumer Dominique Ropion reportedly spent more than 2 years perfecting the formula, and it is said to have the highest concentration of tuberose of any perfume on the market. Other notes include bergamot, melon, eucalyptus, ylang-ylang, jasmine, white musk cocktail, coconut, and orange blossom absolute.

Carnal Flower opens on heavy green notes, evoking the fragrance of crushed stems and leaves over mild citrus. As the tuberose begins to peek though, the green notes fade into camphor, but it is very soft; it warms and dulls the heady floral notes without calling attention to itself. Likewise, the notes that sounded so worrisome to me in the advance notices — the coconut, the melon, the Juicy Fruit gum that Frederic Malle mentioned as an inspiration — all are mere whispers, hardly worth the mention…

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Diptyque Do Son ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 7 November 2005 36 Comments

TuberoseTuberose

Do Son was released by Diptyque this year, and is their first new fragrance for women since 2003’s Jardin Clos. Like Tam Dao, it was inspired by the childhood memories of Yves Coueslant, one of Diptyque’s founders, who…

…grew up in Haiphong, a vast harbour in northern Indochina where his father, a lawyer in love with China, was established. His mother, hardly bearing the heat and damp monsoon weather, used to rest for hours in the fresh and quiet half-light of her sitting room. She loved the bitter sweet fragrance of tuberoses and the great department store in town where she used to buy whatever was fashionable from Paris. (via Diptyque website)

The fragrance notes are tuberose, orange tree leaves, rose, benzoin, iris, and white musk…

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Tuberose fragrances: a few more to consider

Posted by Robin on 20 February 2005 18 Comments

i Profumi di Firenze Tuberosa d' Autunno

I will not even attempt a comprehensive list of tuberose perfumes, but here are a few tuberose soliflores that I have enjoyed trying.

Caron Tubéreuse: This is an elegant, beautiful tuberose with just a smidgen of the dark Caron undertone…

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Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 19 February 2005 21 Comments

Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle, bell jar and export bottle

Tubéreuse Criminelle is to my mind one of the all-time great tuberose fragrances. It was released by Serge Lutens in 1999, and like most of the line, was created by perfumer Chris Sheldrake. The notes include tuberose, jasmine, orange blossom, hyacinth, nutmeg, clove, styrax, musk, vanilla, but even more so than with most, the notes do little to prepare you for the magic of the fragrance.

I well remember my first sniff of Tubéreuse Criminelle: I was quite literally horrified, and immediately headed for the liquid Tide so as to commence removal proceedings. It is difficult to find the right words to describe the initial blast of the top notes, but I have seen the odor compared to everything from sewer gas to moth balls to Vick’s Vapo-rub, and they are ALL accurate…

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Fragrance review: Pilar & Lucy Tiptoeing Through Chambers of the Moon

Posted by Robin on 18 February 2005 7 Comments

Pilar & Lucy Tiptoeing Through Chambers of the Moon

I love Pilar & Lucy’s glam bottles and cutesy perfume names, but I have to admit to feeling some trepidation about their latest, Tiptoeing Through Chambers of the Moon. The only P & L scent I had tried so far, Exact Friction of the Stars, is billed as a vanilla-coconut gourmand, but on my skin the scent had a rather unpleasant undertone that resembled nothing so much as Tupperware melting on the stove. It’s all about chemistry, what can you do…

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