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Ineke Field Notes from Paris ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 11 November 2009 63 Comments

Ineke Field Notes from Paris perfume

San Francisco-based Ineke has just released Field Notes from Paris, their sixth fragrance. Field Notes from Paris is a perfect bookend to my year’s perfume reviews; like February’s John Varvatos Artisan (the first 2009 perfume release I enjoyed), Field Notes from Paris is an immediately likeable — and interesting — orange blossom-centered fragrance.

I’ve struggled to describe Field Notes from Paris’s effect, so I’ll use a “piano” to help me. Since orange blossom is ‘active’ throughout Field Notes from Paris’s development, think of it as the piano’s sustain pedal. Now imagine the other 10 listed fragrance notes (bergamot, coriander seed, tobacco flower, tobacco leaf, patchouli, cedar, tonka bean, leather, beeswax, vanilla) as piano keys: middle C up to A. Hold down the sustain pedal (orange blossom) and begin playing an uncomplicated tune using the ten piano keys (perhaps a melody by John Cage?) The musical notes, blending together, producing moments of beauty, moments of dissonance, are like Field Notes from Paris’s fragrance notes…

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By Kilian Arabian Nights Pure Oud and Back to Black Aphrodisiac ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 4 November 2009 104 Comments

By Kilian Pure Oud

Last week, I read an interesting article in the New York Times1 regarding the falling prices of “premium” blue jeans; reporter Eric Wilson wrote: “The $300 pair of designer jeans is now, courtesy of the recession, the $200 pair of designer jeans.” And what does “premium” mean exactly — “…you had to pay a premium to wear them (the jeans) …. Designers found they could charge a lot for the perception of prestige.”

Niche perfume prices have increased dramatically over the last several years, but the higher prices don’t guarantee outstanding, strikingly original perfumes. Expensive fragrance lines justify their prices and lure consumers with: “rare” and “precious” ingredients; deluxe packaging; restricted availability; flattery (Connoisseurs of fine fragrance will recognize the brilliance of this perfume!); and prices so steep only the “Elite” (YOU!) can afford to buy them.

The NYT article concludes: “Like any commodity that becomes overpriced, there eventually comes a market correction.” While we’re waiting for that correction in the perfume realm, I’ll review two expensive By Kilian scents.

Pure Oud

Pure Oud is the first perfume in By Kilian’s “Arabian Nights” fragrance collection; it was developed by perfumer Calice Becker and lists notes of oud, saffron, copahu balm, amber, gaiac wood, cypriol, cistus labdanum, myrrh and animalic notes…

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Santa Maria Novella Toscano ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 18 February 2008 26 Comments

Santa Maria Novella Toscano

The latest fragrance release from Santa Maria Novella is Toscano and, like its two most recent predecessors, Città di Kyoto and Angels of Florence, it is much lighter than the rich, syrupy, “fuel-like” Santa Maria Novella scents I love: Fieno (Hay), Sandalwood, Peau d’Espagne and the dry-as-bone (and mace-y) Marescialla Cologne (La Maréchale or Marshal’s Wife). Change is in the air at Santa Maria Novella; there seems to be a Modernizing Trend at work — the new creations are not in the piquant, artisanal style I associate with the company.

Though Toscano bears an evocative name (its creation was inspired by the famed Toscano cigars of Lucca, Italy) and comes in the old-fashioned Santa Maria Novella bottles, it smells more “American” than Tuscan to me…

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