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C’est un creve-coeur

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Nous vendons des parfums dont le plus vieux a plus de 150 ans. Si un jour, Bruxelles ne veut plus d’essence de rose, comment pourrais-je faire ? Il y a de la rose dans presque tous nos parfums… C’est un patrimoine à défendre.

— Perfumer Thierry Wasser of Guerlain, wondering what will happen to the iconic Guerlain fragrances if and when IFRA outlaws rose. Quoted in Les créateurs de parfums ont la Commission européenne dans le nez in Le Monde. The article also quotes perfumer François Demachy, and representatives from Jean Paul Gaultier and Paco Rabanne, among others…

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Guerlain Idylle ~ perfume review

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Guerlain Idylle fragrance advert

Idylle is the latest feminine pillar from Guerlain, and the first from house perfumer Thierry Wasser, and as such, poor thing, carries with it a fair amount of baggage. I liked Guerlain’s last such effort, Insolence, but would not be surprised to hear that it was not a big seller. I did not like the one prior to that, L’Instant, but would not be surprised to hear that it sold quite well. So.

Insolence made reference to Guerlain’s past and the brand’s famed Guerlinade base.1 Idylle does not, so we can dispense with that right away. Instead, it offers a “contemporary interpretation” of Guerlinade, based on a “chypre signature of patchouli and white musk”. I’ve gone on ad nauseam elsewhere about the modern chypre concept — which apparently means only that you’ve added a bit of clean patchouli to the base — so I won’t belabor the point here, but I will say that there’s nothing unusual or striking enough about the patchouli and white musk base of Idylle for it to constitute a recognizable brand signature, far from it — it very neatly marks Idylle as a modern department store fragrance…

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Not what it used to be

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Yet he recognizes that perfume is not what it used to be.

"The general idea of luxury fragrance - which is a dream, a self-indulgence - is gone.

"A lot of people use fragrance as a pin, on a jacket, as decoration,'' he said. "It's an accessory, (a piece) of a designer."

— Guerlain's house perfumer, Thierry Wasser, quoted in Perfume Encounter at the Montreal Gazette.

Guerlain Homme ~ fragrance review

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Guerlain Homme cologne for men

I always enjoy watching Sylvaine Delacourte, Guerlain’s head of fragrance development, in action; I have no idea if she would be fun to work with or for, but she always appears vivacious and flirtatious in Guerlain film clips. Watching Delacourte and Thierry Wasser, Guerlain’s exclusive house perfumer, discuss Guerlain Homme on the Guerlain Homme website is amusing. Delacourte, sitting next to Wasser and staring straight at the camera, claims the idea for Guerlain Homme came to her six years ago as she drank a thirst-quenching mojito in Cuba at the Hemingway Bar. Wasser, upon hearing this pronouncement, lowers his head, laughs and gives Delacourte a look that reads: “Oh, NO she didn’t!” Wasser then says HE’S been working on a mojito accord (rum, mint and lime) “on my own”. (It’s really too bad there’s not a Liz Smith of the perfume world; let’s just say Delacourte and Wasser collaborated on Guerlain Homme.)

Guerlain is marketing Guerlain Homme as a new type of fragrance — a new type of ‘freshness’ in perfumery; Wasser calls it “inimitable”. The Guerlain Homme film ad is set in a jungle, where a well-groomed, half-naked, modern-day ‘Tarzan’ drinks at a watering hole alongside wild animals. I like the goofy ad but there is nothing really new, wild or animalic about Guerlain Homme. As I wear Guerlain Homme, I don’t think “Tarzan” or “jungle” — I imagine a Lacoste-clad guy on a Caribbean veranda sipping a mojito alongside Delacourte. But just because Guerlain Homme is not wild, or wildly original, does not mean it’s bad; in fact, this is the first new mainstream Guerlain fragrance I’ve liked in a long time…

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