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Browsing by tag: sophia grojsman

Random musings on Yves Saint Laurent Paris

Posted by Robin on 2 June 2008 38 Comments

Yves Saint Laurent Paris fragrance

In a sense, I was influenced by Après L'Ondée (1906). I love Guerlain fragrances, but I said to myself that, if I were to make Après L'Ondée today, it would be much lighter, airier, younger. Some pieces I wouldn't use. So Paris started as an imagined Après L'Ondée. Obviously, in Après L'Ondée, you don't have roses in the background, but I had the skeleton of a very creamy violet note. Then I worked on the rose to put with it.

That's perfumer Sophia Grojsman talking about the genesis of Yves Saint Laurent Paris (from Michael Edwards' Perfume Legends: French feminine fragrances, p. 200), her first fragrance. Paris debuted in 1983, and was the perfect fragrance for the time: I wore it, my mother wore it, some days it seemed like everyone wore it (and plenty of it, more about which below).

Paris opens fruity and bright and big, with a happy, optimistic air. The heart is lush, jammy roses softened by Grojsman's “creamy violet note”. Yves Saint Laurent had reportedly chosen the name Paris and the color pink before the fragrance was developed…

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Bvlgari Pour Femme ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 7 March 2008 41 Comments

Bvlgari Pour Femme fragranceKate Moss for Bvlgari Pour Femme

It was interesting to read the various opinions on Bvlgari as a fragrance house in the comments to Kevin’s article about their Aqva line for men. I think of Bvlgari as one of the better mainstream brands. No, the fragrances aren’t all wildly innovative, but to my nose, they’re all (ok, mostly) so nicely done. A perfect example: Bvlgari Pour Femme.

Bvlgari launched Pour Femme in 1994. It was the line’s second fragrance, following Eau Parfumee au Thé Vert, and it was originally known just as “Bvlgari”. They introduced it slowly in the United States, restricting it initially to about 40 stores, and I can’t resist quoting this oh-if-you-only-knew statement from a Chanel representative (a Chanel subsidiary was in charge of the US distribution):

We think that things are becoming a little too fast, easy and gimmicky in the fragrance business. Perhaps the best way to cut through the clutter is to be more quiet and tasteful about a launch. (via Women’s Wear Daily, 6/17/1994)

We’ll leave aside consideration of how well a “quiet and tasteful” launch would work in 2008…

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Love is a feeling of euphoria…

Posted by Robin on 25 October 2007 Leave a Comment

Perfumer Sophia Grojsman talks about S-Perfume 100% Love.

Frederic Malle Outrageous, Lalique 2008 Buddha edition ~ new fragrances

Posted by Robin on 14 September 2007 4 Comments

Frederic Malle Outrageous perfumeFrederic Malle has launched a new fragrance, Outrageous, to be sold exclusively at Barneys and Barneys Coop stores. The new scent was developed by perfumer Sophia Grojsman.

The notes: caipirinha, clean laundry, green apple, orange blossom, amber and Texas cedar.

Frederic Malle Outrageous is available at Barneys in 100 ml for $110…

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Lancome Tresor Sparkling / Tresor Eau Etincelante ~ new fragrance

Posted by Robin on 17 April 2007 2 Comments

Lancome Tresor Sparkling perfume

Lancôme has introduced a new limited edition variation on their classic fragrance Trésor: Trésor Sparkling (Trésor Eau Etincelante in France):

Trésor Sparkling is a fragrance of dazzling radiance with the freshness of pear, the embrace of white rose…

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