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Browsing by tag: sandalwood

Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 22 March 2013 45 Comments

Dries Van Noten, runway shot 1dries-2dries-3dries-4

Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle is the first entry in a new collection from the Frédéric Malle brand: XXX par Frédéric Malle, in which Mr. Malle promises to “translate the world of people and brands that [he admires] into scents”.1 The Belgian designer Dries Van Noten is up first, and most long time readers could probably guess that I don’t know Dries Van Noten from Adam, but after reading in Wikipedia (where else?) that Mr. Van Noten does not do haute couture because “I’m a little naive but I don’t like the idea of showing things that you don’t sell in a store”, he has already stolen my heart.2

Reportedly, it took 18 months for Malle to translate the Van Noten universe into scent, working with perfumer Bruno Jovanovic:

Then I tried to make Bruno understand the essence of Dries’ world. I spoke about the different themes and recurrent materials that my hero often uses: Indian embroidery, XVIIIth century engravings, or the very graphic and colorful prints that he juxtaposes to create unexpected harmony — just like a perfumer does…

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Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 3 October 2012 38 Comments

Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule

Somewhere between the over-spiced/overpriced, under-sandalwooded Serge Lutens Santal de Mysore and the nuclear-strength, feminine, flowers and fruit of Santal Blanc (now residing in exclusivity, in Paris, smart thing!) is an open slot for a perfect Serge Lutens sandalwood perfume. (Or at least a sandalwood with charm, balance and a carefree attitude.) When I heard Lutens was releasing a new sandalwood fragrance, Santal Majuscule*, I was interested…but cautious. It’s been a long time since a new Lutens fragrance has tempted me.

Santal Majuscule goes on smelling mildly/vaguely spicy with aromas that remind me of candied orange peel and immortelle (and is there something “minty” in the background, too?) Quickly, the perfume becomes denser and gives off the aromas of shortbread cookies (on the verge of burning) in a wood stove — incensy, and not at all unpleasant. Then, unexpectedly, a rose scent mixes with the toasty wood notes (and for a short spell, smelled on the air, not up close, Santal Majuscule smells like a richer version of Cartier Déclaration d’un Soir). As the perfume develops I get hints of brown sugar/molasses and sweet cocoa…

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One of our favorite staple essential oils

Posted by Robin on 15 May 2012 4 Comments

A five minute video from Lush on the Australian sandalwood trade. (And you can find prior Lush videos on the subject of sandalwood here)

Tom Ford Santal Blush ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 25 October 2011 63 Comments

So when I reviewed Tom Ford Violet Blonde last month, I said that I may be nearly alone among perfumistas in preferring Tom Ford’s Signature Collection to the Private Blends. I like Oud Wood, but I like Yves Saint Laurent M7 better, and I’ve never been more than lukewarm about the rest of them. If anything, my interest in the collection has decreased over the years, and it pretty much hit rock bottom with the release of the White Musk collection.

The Signature Collection fragrances strike me as generally better thought out and better executed — Tom Ford tends, in general, towards loud, but the polished elegance of the Signature Collection stands in stark contrast to the blunt force of some of the Private Blend scents, especially the early ones (I still remember wondering, when I first smelled the Private Blends, if some of them weren’t maybe unfinished mods for Black Orchid). The three Signature fragrances fit together nicely; they don’t smell the same but they have a similar style, and as such they lend a sense of cohesiveness to the Tom Ford Beauty line that is notably missing from most mainstream designer perfume houses.

The Private Blends, on the other hand, seem like a mishmash…

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The story of sandalwood

Posted by Robin on 11 May 2010 2 Comments

Simon Constantine of Lush talks about the world sandalwood market. It isn't the most visually stimulating video ever, but provides a good introduction to the subject.

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