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Browsing by tag: rose

Phaedon Rouge Avignon ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 8 September 2014 24 Comments

raspberry & rose petal

After having smelled hundreds — if not thousands — of perfume samples, sometimes it feels that many fragrances give in to the same tropes. Rightly or wrongly, it’s easy to dismiss them with a “been there, done that” cursory sniff. If I say “white floral,” you probably mentally sniff gardenia, tuberose and musk. Or, to get more specific, “beachy white floral,” “innocent white floral” and “glamorous white floral” bring to mind particular fragrance types. If you’ve smelled one, you can assume you’ve smelled them all.

So, when Phaedon Rouge Avignon was presented to me as a “rose incense,” I figured I knew what I’d smell next. After all, I’ve spent time with samples of Tauer Perfumes Incense Rosé, Terry de Gunzburg Rose Infernale and others. What I didn’t count on was a good-enough-to-eat infusion of raspberry and cocoa along with the rose and incense. It makes for an unexpected — and if you’re in the mood for it — appealing twist…

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Maria Candida Gentile Cinabre ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 13 June 2014 15 Comments

Dante Gabriel Rossetti, Roman Widow, detail

I’m still exploring the Italian niche line Maria Candida Gentile, so you can imagine my delight and curiosity when I realized that the collection includes a rose-centered fragrance. Cinabre, one of the “Classic” scents in the line…

…creates the fragrance of a magic rose with a breakthrough formula. It blends the essences of the Moroccan Splendens roses, absolute of May roses and pure vanilla to recreate, by magic, the scent of the Ayrshire rose Splendens, an ancient rose well known for having exquisite and extremely rare notes of myrrh.

It was also inspired by an inscription on the Porta Alchemica in Rome and by the Dracaena tree, also known as “the dragon’s tree,” which produces a red sap (“dragon’s blood”).

All this scene-setting aside, Cinabre is an oriental rose that unfolds like a crimson satin fan…

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Ann Gerard Rose Cut ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 12 May 2014 45 Comments

Ann Gérard Rose Cut, bottle top view

All you rose-weary perfume lovers might be ready to click over to a different site when you see I’m reviewing Ann Gérard Rose Cut, but hang on a moment. I’ve had my issues with rose fragrances, too. Sure, I keep a bottle of Parfum d’Empire Eau Suave around to remind me of Henry James’s famous saying that “summer afternoon” are the two most beautiful words in the English language. And I have some Guerlain Nahéma for when I’m feeling giddy and ridiculous and nothing will do but rose and peach fireworks. But for the most part, rose fragrances can smell predictable. Dull. Not Rose Cut.

Our friend, the hardest-working man in fragrance, Bertrand Duchaufour,1 developed Rose Cut…

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Roses de Chloe ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 28 February 2014 26 Comments

Chloé Roses de Chloé advert

Chloé is one of those brands that just makes me feel old. Old enough, at least, to remember a time when Karl Lagerfeld was the house designer and when the signature Chloé fragrance was a powerful white jasmine-tuberose perfume in a bottle topped with beautifully sculpted, frosted-glass floral forms. Sometimes it’s hard for me to remember that today’s Chloé is a ribbed-glass square bottle containing a sheer peony-lily-magnolia scent. Just yesterday, Robin posted a quick poll asking everyone to “recommend a perfumista-worthy inoffensive, ‘light & fresh’ office-friendly floral.” I’d nominate Chloé.

And now we have a pink-tinted flanker, Roses de Chloé…

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Tauer Perfumes Phi Une Rose de Kandahar ~ fragrance review and a quick rose poll

Posted by Robin on 15 January 2014 142 Comments

rust-colored rose

Phi — Une Rose de Kandahar is the latest from indie niche line Tauer Perfumes, and when my sample arrived last year, I sprayed it once, then put it right into the purgatory basket, where samples go to languish when I can’t decide if I like them or not. And Phi did not capture my affections right away. It’s the second fragrance to join Tauer’s Collectibles series (the first was Zeta), which is based on rare natural materials. Since the scents are dependent on specific harvests, they may change slightly from batch to batch as new materials are sourced. As you might have deduced from the name, Phi was inspired by a natural extract of a rose from Afghanistan.

Anyway, I did not love Phi — I wasn’t even sure if I liked Phi — so I let it sit for a few weeks, and then a few more, and then I came across it at random and gave it another shot. Maybe it’s the colder weather, or maybe it’s that I wasn’t in the right mood the first time around, but now it seems perfect.

The first thing you need to know about Phi (assuming you haven’t already smelled it, and many of you probably have) is that it’s not a big floral rose, nor is it a feminine one…

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