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Browsing by tag: rose

Chanel Misia ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 11 March 2015 62 Comments

Chanel Misia, brand banner

Misia did not create anything, but, through the people she met throughout her life and her magnetic presence alongside artists of the time, she became a muse, a patron and an arbiter of taste for several decades. — Musée d’Orsay

My intention for this fragrance wasn’t so much to recapture Misia herself, but her role as a turning point in the life of Gabrielle Chanel. Misia introduced Gabrielle to a number of new things. With this fragrance, I wanted to convey the atmosphere of the Ballets Russes [of which Misia was a patron] and the smell of makeup from that time. — Olivier Polge1

Misia is the latest from the Les Exclusifs collection at Chanel, and the first release from perfumer Olivier Polge. You may remember that Polge has been named as the successor to his father, Jacques Polge, who has been the Chanel house perfumer since 1978. The fragrance was named for Misia Sert, a friend of Coco Chanel, but I am not going to belabor the backstory — Misia Sert was fascinating, but really “Ballets Russes” and “the smell of makeup from that time” tells you most of what you need to know about the fragrance…

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A vial of cloudy white broth

Posted by Robin on 5 March 2015 2 Comments

SITTING before me is a vial of cloudy white broth. Biologist Patrick Boyle invites me to take a sniff. To my amateur nose, the liquid smells green and sweet, a little like fresh-cut grass, a little like a bunch of flowers.

The concoction is a microbial perfume. Cooked up in the laboratories of Ginkgo BioWorks in Boston, it contains yeast that has been genetically engineered to smell of roses.

— As previously reported, Robertet and Gingko Bioworks are working on a bioengineered rose oil. Read more at Would you wear yeast perfume? Microbes used to brew scent at NewScientist. Hat tip to Bob!

Van Cleef & Arpels Rose Velours ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 26 February 2015 23 Comments

A rose is a rose

Apparently I’m hosting my own little Rose Parade for Spring 2015, since there have been so many new rose fragrance releases lately that I feel the need to try each and every one. The scorecard so far: I’m very fond of L’Artisan Parfumeur Rose Privée and Divine Spirituelle (reviewed by Angie), less captivated by Aerin Rose de Grasse and Maison Francis Kurkdjian A la Rose.

Flipping back to last year’s somewhat shorter list of rose releases, however, I just noticed one perfume that I meant to cover and almost forgot until now. It’s Van Cleef & Arpels Rose Velours, from the jewelry brand’s Collection Extraordinaire fragrance line…

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Maison Francis Kurkdjian A la Rose ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 19 February 2015 34 Comments

Maison Francis Kurkdjian À la Rose, brand banner

Roses, roses all the way! It’s the annual spring rush of my favorite flower in fragrance. I’ve recently reviewed L’Artisan Parfumeur Rose Privée and Aerin Rose de Grasse, and today I’m taking a close sniff of Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s À la Rose. Yes, it’s another “ode to femininity,” another homage to the rose fields of Grasse, another pink juice…but I’m still not tired of roses, so onwards we go.

In À la Rose, “an eau de parfum that evokes the crisp tenderness of rose petals and a radiant aura” as well as “a free-spirited elegance,” Francis Kurkdjian has brought together notes of Damascena rose, Centifolia rose, bergamot, orange, violet, magnolia blossom, cedar wood and musk. (As Robin earlier noted, the fragrance was inspired by Marie Antoinette’s love of roses and the painting Marie-Antoinette à la Rose by Louise Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun…)

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Aerin Rose de Grasse ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 12 February 2015 39 Comments

Aerin Lauder for Aerin Rose de Grasse

I saw Aerin Lauder in person once, just for a few fleeting seconds. She was sitting in a lunch meeting at an uptown eatery in Manhattan. She looked just as she often looks in photographs: very pretty, very polished, reserved and just a touch skeptical. I kept thinking of that sighting when I was trying out Rose de Grasse, a new floral fragrance for women recently launched by Lauder’s namesake Aerin brand.

Rose de Grasse is described as a “captivating scent — pristine, sophisticated, unexpected and iconic,” and an homage to several varieties of roses. It combines notes of centifolia rose, Bulgarian rose and “rose absolute” (no specific rose named here) with ambrette seed, a “watery accord,” violet wood, ambrox and musk. My main impression is that Rose de Grasse is made with good-quality ingredients, even if leans more towards the “pristine and sophisticated” rather than the “unexpected and iconic…”

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