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Browsing by tag: reformulations

An identical perfume

Posted by Robin on 30 September 2025 4 Comments

“We worked with perfumers to achieve an identical perfume, replacing one molecule with a fresh floral note for an equivalent one that gives this transparent floral effect,” says Anaïs Paillard, fragrance development coordinator at the company. “We also reduced a couple of ingredients with citrus notes and another with an aromatic note with a lavender effect. We worked to balance the formula using equivalent substitutes.”

— On Halloween Eau de Toilette, which has been reformulated twice. Read more in Why doesn’t my favorite perfume smell the same anymore? The mysterious task of fragrance reformulation at El País.

Death and sex, entropy and excess

Posted by Robin on 17 May 2021 13 Comments

The scent, created by the legendary French parfumier Bernard Chant, was tangy, feral, and almost too naughty to wear to work, but this mildly transgressive quality was a big part of the appeal. The seventies were an unbridled and messy time, when loucheness was a life style born of postwar nihilism and economic decline. If the city was crumbling around you, why not smell like death and sex, entropy and excess? The new formula does not smell like these things. It cannot clear elevators or persist through a night of heavy dancing. It evaporates quickly and smells a little like soap. Still, I bought a bottle recently, because I knew that a new Netflix miniseries about Halston (called, simply, “Halston,”) was coming, and I wanted to turn my viewing experience into a kind of Smell-O-Vision. As it turns out, the synthetic, exasperating reformulation was a perfect match for watching the series.

— Read more in The Freeing Fashion Behind the Halston Saga at The New Yorker.

A larger-than-usual number of bans, restrictions and specifications

Posted by Robin on 22 April 2021 3 Comments

Then in 2020, the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), the industry’s self-regulatory body, imposed a larger-than-usual number of bans, restrictions and specifications (such as purity criteria) on ingredients, with implementation required by early this May for new creations, and by May 10 next year for existing perfumes. (An estimated 80 to 90 percent of the perfume industry are members of IFRA and follow its standards.)

— Read more in A Big Stink in the World of Perfume at The Washington Post Magazine.

Reformulation is much more difficult than it seems

Posted by Robin on 9 June 2020 9 Comments

Reformulation is much more difficult than it seems, to the point of becoming an integral part of the perfumer’s job. We are often asked to alter a fragrance slightly, make a fragrance more floral, more diffusive, creamier. In the case of reformulation, we have to do the same thing. We have to change the fragrance without really changing it, without losing its character, because some consumers have been buying a perfume for such a long that they know it by heart. So the challenge is to figure out how to change without changing.

— Read more in Olfactory reformulation a delicate exercise at Premium Beauty News.

A third force

Posted by Robin on 20 May 2011 8 Comments

In the past, changes were driven by Mother Nature—or accountants. One caused variations in the quality and availability of natural ingredients, the other substituted less costly ones... In recent years, there’s been a third force: industry efforts to cut back on allergy-causing ingredients, to avoid labelling requirements or outright ingredient bans.

— Kim Pittaway, writing in This ain’t my mama’s L’Air Du Temps at Maclean's.

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