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Browsing by tag: powdery

Lorenzo Villoresi Alamut ~ perfume review

Posted by Angela on 2 October 2007 8 Comments

Lorenzo Villoresi Alamut fragrance

Every once in a while a perfume feels less like a mélange of scents than like a “thing”. Lorenzo Villoresi Alamut is an example. When Alamut has settled on my skin, I don’t think about flowers or fruit or wood — I think of a slice of warm brioche.

Alamut’s notes include osmanthus, aldehydes, rose, jasmine, powder, rosewood, narcissus, tuberose, ylang ylang, labdanum, amber, sandalwood, musk, patchouli, and leather, but they are so meltingly blended that teasing out any one note is difficult. I do smell a gentle powdery suede and maybe ylang ylang and rose, but this is not the sort of perfume that gives off occasional puffs of sandalwood or jasmine that separate from the total formula before blending in again. I want to call Alamut spicy, animalic, and oriental, but these descriptors give Alamut an edge that it doesn’t have…

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Powder cravings

Posted by Angela on 21 June 2007 54 Comments

Fairy Glitter Powder Puff

The Powdery Perfumes fairy alit on my shoulder last week, rustled her wings, and whispered in my ear, “Lorenzo Villoresi Alamut”. I stopped typing and looked up. Alamut? I remembered trying it sometime last fall. It was all right: warm, vaguely oriental, and powdery, but I wasn’t inspired to try it more than once. Surely I still had that vial somewhere?

I fished through my drawer of samples and came up with a 3 ml spray of Alamut and put some on right away. It was fabulous! Alamut felt like the olfactory equivalent of a down comforter with an amber silk velvet cover. It was elegant, beautifully blended, and inspired me to tidy up my hair and put on lipstick. I spent the rest of the afternoon with my forearm pressed against my nose. By noon the next day the vial of Alamut, plus another tiny sample I found of it, were gone and I was on a powder rampage…

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Floris Malmaison fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 10 May 2007 12 Comments

White carnation

A friend very kindly sent me some Malmaison by Floris so that I could wrap up last week’s posts on carnation (see Lorenzo Villoresi Garofano, Etro Dianthus, Caron Bellodgia). I had not smelled it in several years, and was surprised to find how closely it matched my memory — it is lovely stuff.

Malmaison was originally released by Floris in the first half of the 19th century; it was reformulated and relaunched in 2000. I do not know the notes, but it is reportedly based on the “rare Malmaison carnation“, and it is closer to the modern conception of a soliflore than any of the other carnation scents I’ve discussed so far. The top notes are, quite literally, a burst of fall spices…

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Molinard Habanita fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 5 April 2007 48 Comments

Molinard Habanita perfume

Molinard introduced Habanita in 1921, not as a personal fragrance but as a product to scent cigarettes. It was available in scented sachets to slide into a pack of cigarettes, or in liquid form: “A glass rod dipped in this fragrance and drawn along a lighted cigarette will perfume the smoke with a delicious, lasting aroma” (quoted in The Book of Perfume, page 76).

Whether women experimented with sliding that glass rod along their arms I cannot say, but by 1924 Molinard had launched Habanita as a perfume for women, housed in a Lalique bottle decorated with water nymphs. It was reformulated in the late 1980s, and no doubt has been reworked since then (hasn’t everything?); the notes include bergamot, peach, orange blossom, galbanum, oakmoss, jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, heliotrope, patchouli, amber, leather, vetiver, cedar, sandalwood, benzoin and vanilla…

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L’Artisan Drole de Rose fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 6 September 2006 32 Comments

L'Artisan Parfumeur Drole de Rose perfume

L’Artisan Parfumeur, like Serge Lutens, is a Paris-based niche fragrance house, and I would guess that if you were to rank niche perfume brands by the status accorded to them at the various online fragrance blogs and forums, Serge Lutens would easily take the top spot and L’Artisan would comfortably take the second (do comment if you think my estimation is way off base).

The two brands make an interesting study in contrasts, especially if you will allow for any number of sweeping generalizations (and if you won’t, do please skip the rest of this post). Yesterday in my review of Sa Majesté la Rose, I said that the Serge Lutens fragrances can be characterized as…

…personal artistic statements; to smell them is akin to entering someone else’s dream world. At the same time, as perfumes, they are satisfyingly rich and complex…

As with the classic perfumes of the first half of the 20th century, the Serge Lutens scents unfold slowly over the course of hours, and it is this complexity, I think, that allows for the intense, dream-like quality of the line…

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