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Browsing by tag: powdery

Chanel No. 19 and No. 19 Poudre ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 29 August 2011 119 Comments

Chanel No. 19 Poudré

No matter how many fragrances Chanel’s line up features, Chanel No. 5 hogs the limelight. Yet supposedly Coco Chanel’s favorite, the one she named after her birth date, was No. 19. Rumor is she kept No. 19 out of mass production so she could wear it herself and give bottles to special clients and friends.

In 1971, after Mademoiselle’s death, Chanel released No. 19 to the public. Chanel’s website describes the fragrance, developed by perfumer Henri Robert, as “A rich blend of floral and green notes, followed by May Rose and Iris from Florence. The finale: a chime of Chypre with a subtle, woody Vetiver note.” It goes on to say No. 19 is “Audacious and assertive. Never conventional.”

If No. 5 is the grande dame with pearls and Champagne, No. 19 is the ingénue. While No. 5 sits in the living room with nattily dressed suitors, No. 19 is getting back from a ride through the forest on a summer day…

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Givenchy Dahlia Noir ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 18 August 2011 68 Comments

Givenchy Dahlia Noir

A fantasy flower—The first fragrance developed under the creative direction of Riccardo Tisci, Dahlia Noir embodies the mysterious, singular radiance of a woman’s graceful power. Dahlia Noir is both feminine and sensual thanks to its floral and powdery facets, but also powerful and captivating with its woody base notes. A Couture fragrance all in pure lines, a return to supreme luxury. The quintessence of the Givenchy Style.1

At times, it is almost too perfect (or just boring?) how neatly fragrance brands — and my tastes — stay inside their boxes. As I’ve said here umpteen and a half times, I don’t follow fashion, but I do think nearly anybody who pays any attention at all to perfume could smell yesterday’s subject, Prada Candy, and today’s, the new Dahlia Noir from Givenchy, and say which was the Prada and which was the Givenchy, even if they’d read nothing whatsoever about either fragrance. And I’m just as predictable to anyone who reads here regularly: I didn’t expect to like the Prada, but I did, and I didn’t expect to like the Givenchy,2 and I didn’t.

Likewise, I loved the silly Prada Candy commercial, but the commercial for Dahlia Noir left me mostly cold — the shots of Mariacarla Boscono’s dress billowing in the wind are mesmerizing, but most of the rest of it looks like it’s trying way too hard to be sexy. The parts that weren’t trying to be sexy (those long moments when she’s just walking across the floor) struck me as plain dull.

I might say the same for Dahlia Noir’s juice…

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Estee Lauder Sensuous Nude ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 3 August 2011 59 Comments

Estee Lauder Sensuous Nude advert

Sensuous Nude is the second and most recent of the flankers to Estee Lauder’s 2008 fragrance, Sensuous; it follows 2010’s Sensuous Noir. I will readily admit that I don’t pay much attention to trends in perfumery, despite spending so much time reporting on new releases. I notice the big things: everybody who wants a piece of the high end niche market is doing oud, fruity florals and modern chypres are still the staples of the mainstream women’s market, the men are still getting more bland sport fragrances than anybody could possibly need or want. Fifty-odd years after perfumer Edmond Roudnitska complained that perfumes were getting too foody, gourmand elements are still all the rage on both sides of the aisle. Up and coming, on the women’s side: powdery sheer skin scents, à la Cartier Baiser Volé, the Prada Infusions (and L’Eau Ambrée), Balenciaga Paris, Love, Chloé and Hermès Eau Claire des Merveilles.

Sensuous Nude falls into the latter group; you could probably already guess that from its reported inspiration: the “intimacy of touch and bare skin”.1 It makes a real change from Sensuous, which had some sillage (although I thought of it — and wore it — as a casual skin scent anyway), and even more so from the darker, spicier, woodier Sensuous Noir…

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Cartier Baiser Vole ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 12 July 2011 77 Comments

Baiser Volé (‘Stolen Kiss’) debuts this month from Cartier. The pleasant but faceless Cartier de Lune (I tried but failed to review it, and have entirely forgotten what it smells like) launched only very recently so I was surprised to see another feminine entry so soon, but here we are. This one was also done by perfumer Mathilde Laurent, who noted that “when asked about their favorite flower, many men said it was the lily” (really? can that possibly be?) but that she “didn’t want it to be the 1,001st floral floriental” (fine with me) and she “didn’t want to add a new floral composition” (ditto); instead, she “[imagined] what the whole flower — including its leaves, petals and pistil — could smell like”.1 Translation: lily haters need not (necessarily) worry, lily lovers need not (necessarily) drool.

Cartier is calling Baiser Volé a fresh powdery floral, and that’s just what it is: a little veil of scent, in keeping with the recent spate of “minimalist veil” fragrances. So forget about lily bombs like Donna Karan Gold or Serge Lutens Un Lys, think instead of Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial, the Prada Infusions (and L’Eau Ambrée), Balenciaga Paris, Love, Chloé and Hermès Eau Claire des Merveilles, etc etc, and you’ll get the idea…

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Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose ~ perfume review

Posted by Jessica on 11 February 2011 59 Comments

Norma Talmadge (circa 1919)

Roses are red, violets are blue…and this “valentine” to Lipstick Rose is long overdue. Seriously, I’ve intended to write a review of this fragrance for quite a while, but I kept getting distracted by new releases and so on. Sometimes we tend to take our loved ones for granted, in perfume as in relationships, but I’ve decided not to delay any longer in sharing my thoughts on Lipstick Rose.

Lipstick Rose was launched in 2000 as part of the original product line from Editions de Parfums. It was created for Frédéric Malle by perfumer Ralf Schwieger, and it is described by Editions de Parfums as “a vision of glamorized femininity” that evokes the “bonbon” scent of lipstick; its notes are listed as rose, violet, musk, vanilla, vetiver, and amber. Lipstick Rose has a fizzy, aldehydic opening with a sweet-but-tart raspberry note. The fragrance’s heart is a blend of talc-dusted tea rose petals and violet liqueur that does, yes, remind me of certain highly-scented lipstick brands. After Lipstick Rose’s flirtatious early development, its base of vetiver and soft musk makes a sophisticated appearance. The lasting dry down is a haze of candied violets and plush, ambery vanilla, with that sly musk lingering beneath. This fragrance has excellent staying power and noticeable sillage (particularly during the first hour or so).

Lipstick Rose is something of a paradox…

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