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Browsing by tag: perfume history

Transmission of knowledge in perfumery

Posted by Robin on 2 June 2022 1 Comment

[Egyptologist Dora] Goldsmith has documented Greco-Roman sources consistently listing four ingredients for Mendesian perfume: myrrh, cassia, resin and oil of balanos (most academics believe this is a species of moringa, others desert date oil). Some accounts also mention cinnamon. [...]

“The way Greeks treated Egyptian recipes was very flexible. They retained some ingredients, but they also changed a lot. The study of how perfume recipes changed from the Egyptians to the Greeks can be referred to as transmission of knowledge in perfumery.”

— Read more in Exploring the forgotten scents of ancient Egypt at Middle East Eye.

Changes are in the air

Posted by Robin on 6 May 2022 Leave a Comment

Changes are in the air, though. Some archaeologists are sniffing out odor molecules from artifacts found at dig sites and held in museums. Others are poring over ancient texts for references to perfume recipes, and have even cooked up a scent much like one presumably favored by Cleopatra. In studying and reviving scents of the past, these researchers aim to understand how ancient people experienced, and interpreted, their worlds through smell.

— Read more in Ancient ‘smellscapes’ are wafting out of artifacts and old texts at ScienceNews.

The Chanel No. 5 of late antiquity

Posted by Robin on 18 April 2022 Leave a Comment

Spices were imported from all over the world to Mendes, [University of Hawaii professor Robert] Littman said, including from India, Arabia and Africa, making Mendes a major center of the perfume trade from about 300 B.C. to about 800 A.D.

During the third century B.C., the ancient city of Thmouis produced a perfume, which was named after the main city and called the Mendesian perfume. That’s the one Littman considers to be the “Chanel No. 5” of late antiquity – Cleopatra’s perfume.

— Read more in The Archeology Of Smell: Behind This UH Professor’s Ongoing Quest For Cleopatra’s Perfume at Honolulu Civil Beat.

A fragrant atmosphere

Posted by Robin on 13 April 2022 Leave a Comment

The fragrance that has been created by IFF to accompany the portrait is a typical formula for a pomander from the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. It includes nutmeg, cloves, rosemary, cinnamon, rose, ambergris (produced in the bowels of the sperm whale), and civet (produced in the perineal glands of the civet cat). Certain ingredients were expensive, as nutmeg and cloves were imported from south-east Asia, and ambergris was very rare. The pomander in Besserer’s portrait creates a fragrant atmosphere for his worship, and it magnifies his status through the precious ingredients.

— Follow Your Nose: a Guided Tour with Smells is now open at Museum Ulm in Germany; the pomander scent was created for Portrait of Eitel Besserer. Read more in NOW OPEN: Follow your Nose at Museum Ulm at Odeuropa.

Strong odor of turpentine and myrrh

Posted by Robin on 11 April 2022 Leave a Comment

To truly comprehend the nuanced role smell played in past centuries, look no further than the funeral ceremonies of ancient Rome. When, in 1485, construction workers accidentally stumbled upon a Roman citizen’s grave while working on the Via Appia, they were amazed by the “strong odor of turpentine and myrrh” preserved inside the sarcophagus, alongside subtle hints of frankincense, aloe, and cedar oil.

— Read more in The foul and the fragrant: what did the past smell like? at Big Think.

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