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Browsing by tag: oud

By Kilian Arabian Nights Pure Oud and Back to Black Aphrodisiac ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 4 November 2009 104 Comments

By Kilian Pure Oud

Last week, I read an interesting article in the New York Times1 regarding the falling prices of “premium” blue jeans; reporter Eric Wilson wrote: “The $300 pair of designer jeans is now, courtesy of the recession, the $200 pair of designer jeans.” And what does “premium” mean exactly — “…you had to pay a premium to wear them (the jeans) …. Designers found they could charge a lot for the perception of prestige.”

Niche perfume prices have increased dramatically over the last several years, but the higher prices don’t guarantee outstanding, strikingly original perfumes. Expensive fragrance lines justify their prices and lure consumers with: “rare” and “precious” ingredients; deluxe packaging; restricted availability; flattery (Connoisseurs of fine fragrance will recognize the brilliance of this perfume!); and prices so steep only the “Elite” (YOU!) can afford to buy them.

The NYT article concludes: “Like any commodity that becomes overpriced, there eventually comes a market correction.” While we’re waiting for that correction in the perfume realm, I’ll review two expensive By Kilian scents.

Pure Oud

Pure Oud is the first perfume in By Kilian’s “Arabian Nights” fragrance collection; it was developed by perfumer Calice Becker and lists notes of oud, saffron, copahu balm, amber, gaiac wood, cypriol, cistus labdanum, myrrh and animalic notes…

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Czech & Speake Dark Rose ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 30 June 2009 83 Comments

Czech & Speake Dark RoseCzech & Speake Dark RoseCzech & Speake Dark Rose

Czech & Speake is a British bathroom fixtures brand. They started their fragrance line in 1980 as part of an overall strategy to “do everything that has to do with luxurious baths” (they also carry shaving products and leather toiletry bags).1 Dark Rose is one of their newer scents — it launched in 2003, and I can’t say for sure when it was taken off the market (reportedly due to production problems of some sort or another), but when I first tried it in late 2006, it was already impossible to find. Is it a kindness or a torture that perfumistas routinely share samples of discontinued fragrances?

Dark Rose was re-launched this year, and I was looking forward to trying the new vs. the old. Most unfortunately (or not: sometimes it’s best not to know) my original sample has turned, so I can only tell you about the new. It has rich top notes, with lots of saffron and that medicinal smell that often accompanies oudh wood (the notes: saffron, Bulgarian rose, patchouli, sandalwood, oudh, amber and white musk). It does, undoubtedly, smell vaguely like bandaids for a time…

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Boadicea the Victorious Oud Collection ~ new fragrances

Posted by Robin on 16 June 2009 71 Comments

bdv-oudUK niche line Boadicea the Victorious has launched the Oud Collection, eight new fragrances exclusive to Harrods:

At the heart of this new collection is the rare and beautiful ingredient Oud, the aromatic resinous heartwood from the evergreen Aquilaria trees…

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Comptoir Sud Pacifique Aoud de Nuit, Aouda, Nomaoud & Oud Intense ~ new fragrances

Posted by Robin on 21 April 2009 50 Comments

Comptoir Sud Pacifique Aoud de Nuit fragranceComptoir Sud Pacifique Nomaoud fragrance

Comptoir Sud Pacifique has launched the Voyages to the Orient collection, a new set of fragrances in their Eaux de Voyage line:

Aoud de Nuit (shown above left) ~ “A sensual and captivating nectar revealing the magic of the East thanks to an armful of precious woods and vibrating spices wrapped up with musk and vanilla, sustained by a pinch of warm caramel”, with notes of bergamot, blackcurrant, black rose, iris, vanilla, cardamom, saffron, cedar, caramel, patchouli, sandalwood, oud, tonka bean, musk and animalic accord…

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Le Labo Oud 27 ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 25 March 2009 79 Comments

Study for the Portrait of a Rocker After Anne-Louis Girodet-Trioson

The word “oud” — when relating to perfume — always makes me think of…MONTALE. Montale has won the oud wars in the West by creating more oud-centered fragrances than any company in sight (or smell). When I heard that Le Labo was releasing an oud perfume, I thought: “Poor Le Labo — you haven’t a chance!”

Le Labo launches Oud 27 this month; it’s Le Labo’s first global launch since 2006. (Oud 27 will not be associated with one city — you can buy it at all Le Labo boutiques.) Le Labo divulges only a few components of Oud 27: incense, cedar, patchouli, saffron, gaiac wood and oud…

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