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Browsing by tag: oriental

Tom Ford Noir Pour Femme ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 14 September 2015 60 Comments

Tom Ford Noir Pour Femme brand image

Every once in a while it’s nice to throw restraint to the wind. This is why molten chocolate desserts, lipstick like red patent leather, and Douglas Sirk movies exist. To me, Tom Ford Noir Pour Femme, with its over-the-top nutty sweetness, fits this category.

Noir Pour Femme’s notes include mandarin, bitter orange, ginger, rose absolute, jasmine accord, orange blossom, Indian kulfi accord, Madagascar vanilla, amber, Australian sandalwood, and lentisque resinoid. (Indian kulfi is a rich, dairy-based frozen dessert; lentisque is an evergreen shrub; and a resinoid is the extract of a shrub.) Perfumer Sonia Constant developed it…

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Histoires d’Eaux Ete Indien ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 26 September 2014 15 Comments

Histoires d'Eaux Été Indien

It seems like an appropriate time of year to try a fragrance named for “Indian summer,” so I was pleased when a sample of Histoires d’Eaux Été Indien recently came my way. Histoires d’Eaux is an Italian niche perfume house with French names and a collection inspired by an imaginary “chansonnier” of the 1950s who tells his life story through his song lyrics. (I think I got that correct.) Été Indien was developed by perfumer Dominique Gindre and includes notes of elemi, bergamot, clary sage, geranium, patchouli, vanilla, tolu balsam, styrax and labdanum.

As you can guess by that list, Été Indien is an oriental composition with an amber theme…

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Serge Lutens Chergui ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 6 January 2014 59 Comments

Serge Lutens Chergui, doubled

Dallying with Tom Ford Private Blend Tobacco Oud sent me looking for my sample of Serge Lutens Chergui. It had probably been a couple of years since I’d smelled it. When it took more than a minute to find the tiny vial in a shoebox of samples, I wondered why I was going to all the trouble. Chergui is tobacco and hay. A nice spicy oriental. I know what this one is all about, right? Wrong.

As I’ve been discovering lately with other fragrances I’ve haven’t smelled in a while, Chergui is not exactly what I remembered. Maybe it’s because I’ve sampled so many perfumes between now and the last time I sniffed Chergui and so have a larger frame of reference. Or maybe my taste is changing. But today Chergui to me smells much more complete and complex than I’d remembered…

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Etat Libre d’Orange Bijou Romantique ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 23 March 2012 40 Comments

Etat Libre d'Orange Bijou Romantique packaging

When I read the initial announcement for Etat Libre d’Orange’s release of Bijou Romantique, I had a feeling that I would enjoy this perfume; now that I’ve tried it a few times, I’m happy to say that it has fulfilled all my expectations. Bijou Romantique was developed by perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui (whose earlier Like This is one of my favorite Etat Libre fragrances), and its composition includes notes of bergamot, Italian lemon, pink berries essence, ylang-ylang, sage, iris of Tuscany, EVEE (apparently a molecule from Mane’s laboratories), coconut JE, Haitian vetiver, benzoin, and vanilla.

According to the Etat Libre d’Orange website and other sources, Bijou Romantique’s inspirations are diverse and colorful. They include cameo jewelry; a phrase from the Old Testament, “Her price is far above rubies” (Proverbs 31:10); a line from the French writer Alfred de Musset, “J’ai souffert souvent, je me suis trompé quelquefois, mais j’ai aimé” (“I have suffered often, sometimes I have been mistaken, but I have loved,” from On ne badine pas avec l’amour, 1834); and (via Luckyscent) a reference to the cult comic-book series Corto Maltese. Got all that? (If there’s also a sexual double-entendre in the name or concept, as there often is for Etat Libre, I may be missing it.)

So, what do we have inside the bottle…

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Parfums de Nicolai Maharanih ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 5 March 2012 49 Comments

umbrellas

This review of Parfums de Nicolaï Maharanih was supposed to start like this: Some fragrances are the life of the party. They’re attractive, engaging, and you can’t help but gravitate toward them, even if they’re not the sort of people you choose to have in your life all the time.

Then, surveying other reviews, I discovered that many people don’t see Maharanih as a charming diva at all, but as a grating boor. So I’ve changed the angle on this review. Let me start again:

Parfums de Nicolaï Maharanih is like Cher bedecked in Bob Mackie finery. Whether you admire her beauty and audacity, or think she looks like a Trojan drag queen at a disco, you’re sure to have an opinion…

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