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Maison Francis Kurkdjian APOM Pour Femme & Amyris Femme ~ fragrance reviews

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Maison Francis Kurkdjian Amyris Femme

Maison Francis Kurkdjian is a “niche” fragrance house that has really grown on me since its debut in 2009. Its fragrances all feel like they were thoughtfully composed with high-quality ingredients, the releases are carefully paced, and the house’s style is focused and consistent. I’ve tried Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s various feminine offerings one by one, and lately I’ve been enjoying the new release Amyris Femme, although it probably hasn’t superseded APOM (“A Piece of Me”) Pour Femme as my personal choice from the line.

According to the Maison Francis Kurkdjian website, APOM Pour Femme is a floral-oriental with notes of orange flower, ylang ylang and cedar wood, “a bit of oneself to leave with others.” I’ve realized that I really do enjoy orange blossom fragrances, as long as they’re not too soapy or too sharp, and APOM has been one of my favorite orange blossom scents since I first tested it. Its floral heart is sunny and sweet — this fragrance was reportedly inspired by a journey to Lebanon, and it does have a Mediterranean feel…

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Indie special ~ three quick fragrance reviews

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the forest, with moss

Quick reviews of three fragrances: Sonoma Scent Studio Forest Walk, Ayala Moriel Treazon and The 7 Virtues Afghanistan Orange Blossom. The theme: indie fragrances I’ve added to my buy list.

Sonoma Scent Studio Forest Walk

I tried Forest Walk when it came out earlier this year, and I liked it right away but it didn’t match my summery mood so I set it aside. Then, of course, I lost it, and had to tear my office apart to find it again — raise your hand if your perfume samples are in desperate need of reorganization! Anyway, Forest Walk is just what it says it is: “the earthy, mossy smells of the forest floor with tree bark, tree needles, and soft floral highlights”. It’s brisk but deep, and as advertised, beautifully earthy, and it has a meditative quality that’s perfect for chilly fall evenings. It might be the cold weather version of Annick Goutal Nuit Étoilée — if you found that one a little too thin, Forest Walk might be just what you’re after. Bonus: the travel spray can be had for a song…

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Houbigant Orangers en Fleurs ~ fragrance review

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Houbigant Orangers en FleurHoubigant Orangers en Fleur

We tend to complain that many fragrance houses offer a surfeit of new releases, season after season, without any apparent concern for quality or aesthetic consistency. Houbigant is one house we can’t blame for taking that approach: although it certainly has a “heritage” that would turn newcomer niche lines green with envy, its complicated recent history has resulted in a pared-down catalogue of offerings, which is somehow refreshing these days.

I do remember Chantilly from my teen years, but it’s now owned by Dana Classic Fragrances (and probably doesn’t smell much like it used to in my Seventeen-reading era). And, just a few years ago, I had a co-worker who wore the venerable Quelques Fleurs (1912!) as her signature scent; I loved catching a whiff of it when she passed me in the corridor. On the other hand, I’ve cordially loathed Quelques Fleurs Royales since its release in 2004 — the last news I’d heard about Houbigant until this summer’s launch of Orangers en Fleurs….

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L’Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l’Aube ~ fragrance review, sort of, and a quick poll

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L'Artisan Parfumeur Séville à l’Aube labelL'Artisan Parfumeur Séville à l’Aube fragrance bottle

Séville à l’Aube is the latest from French niche line L’Artisan Parfumeur. Over the years, I’ve reviewed a fair number of their fragrances — yes, I’m a fan. This, however, is not a proper review. I’ve never met blogger Denyse Beaulieu of Grain de Musc, who worked with perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour to develop Séville à l’Aube (and who wrote a book about the process: The Perfume Lover). But I’ve corresponded with her, and I utterly fail the test for any sort of objective review: would I be completely honest if I thought it was dreck? No, I really wouldn’t. I’m quite sure I would just keep my mouth shut and review something else. As it happens, I love Séville à l’Aube, enough so that I want to say something about it. So, consider this a review with a major disclaimer.

The scent’s inspiration and development was detailed in Denyse’s book, and has been repeated elsewhere, so I’ll just quote her own quick summary from Grain de Musc:

[Séville à l’aube] was inspired by one of the most beautiful nights in my life, in Seville during the Holy Week under an orange tree in full blossom, wrapped in incense smoke and the arms of a Spanish boy…

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