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Browsing by tag: natural perfume

Top 10 Spring Fragrances 2011

Posted by Erin on 29 April 2011 140 Comments

Green buds

Blech. Despite being born a May baby, I have never been a fan of spring. I’m sure it’s different in the other parts of the world, but every year, people above the 39th parallel in Europe and North America stand on street corners at this time of year, leaning at a 75 degree angle into gusting drizzle, and insist: “It wasn’t like this last year!” Trust me, it was. The mud, the wind, the Easter snow or hailstorm, the false hope of that one giddy day near April Fool’s when the sun shone and the warm breezes blew, like in a laundry detergent commercial, before the rain and gray chill returned — it all happened last year. I am not a pessimist. It is merely that I believe in the motto of mothers everywhere: let’s not get worked up here. Crazed displays of Birkenstock sandals and patio furniture will only end in tears. I support measured celebrations of spring’s small pleasures. For one, it is ramp season. Perhaps you have received your tax return. The road salt has melted away and you can go to 2D movies without being subjected to aliens, robots or robotic aliens. And it is time for some of your freshest, prettiest, newest fragrances to grace the air.

Composing a Top 10 for this most uncertain of seasons, I have tried not to dwell on lost favorites or the flood of recent scents I’ve missed. Jean Patou Vacances, Gobin-Daudé Sève Exquise, and L’Artisan Jacinthe des Bois are all gone and it somehow felt irresponsible to include them in the list. I have vintage samples of the many spring classics that have been damaged or ruined by reformulation — Balmain Vent Vert, Caron Violette Précieuse, the silver fluidity of Diorissimo, the mysterious smoky-green of Worth Je Reviens, the original Dior Fahrenheit’s honeysuckle-and-wet-blacktop — and I use them sparingly and despairingly. I have not tried MDCI Un Coeur en Mai, Byredo La Tulipe, ElizabethW Magnolia or CB I Hate Perfume Wild Pansy and am trying to convince myself that I don’t need to do so. With no further excuses, my Top 10 of Spring…

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Aftelier Perfumes Parfum Prive ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 11 April 2011 39 Comments

Aftelier Perfumes Parfum Prive

What kind of fragrance does a perfumer make for herself? When someone has smelled through the full range of olfactory materials and has the skill to compose something personal, what is it? In the case of Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes, it’s a dense, sophisticated floral oriental built on real ambergris, a perfume she calls “the most extravagant in my collection.” Fittingly, she named it Parfum Privé.

A few years ago I saw Aftel speak in New York City. Her casual, down-to-earth appearance set her apart from many of the high-heeled, artfully coiffed perfume industry women I’d soon meet at the Fifi semi-finalists’ awards breakfast. She was friendly but not pandering, and smart but not pretentious. My impression was she had nothing to prove, but was happy to share her love of natural perfumery if you were interested enough to listen.

Aftel said her route to becoming a perfumer wasn’t straightforward…

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Three from Providence Perfume Co ~ perfume reviews

Posted by Robin on 31 March 2011 60 Comments

Providence Perfume Tabac Citron

Despite my complaints about boring fragrances in general and boring niche fragrances in particular, I’m generally not all that eager to try new and unknown indie lines. It’s true that you might just smell something fabulous, something entirely outside of the proverbial box, something that you can no longer find in mainstream or niche. But to get there, you’re going to kiss a lot of frogs, right? And by frogs, I mean fragrances that are not just boring, but awful — scrubbers, perhaps, or worse.1

Providence Perfume Co, which has garnered some attention on the blogs & forums, turned out to be a pleasant surprise. I tried 8 of the line’s 9 offerings, and didn’t reach for the liquid Tide even once. Charna Ethier is a relative newcomer to the indie natural scene; she’s been marketing her own perfumes for about a year or so. Her line caught my eye primarily because she makes a fragrance called Osmanthus Oolong which sounded nearly custom-made for me: black, green and red teas, osmanthus, beeswax. As it turned out, I didn’t like Osmanthus Oolong. It was too heavy and sweet, and maybe just too far away from the Osmanthus Oolong of my imagination (I drink real osmanthus oolong tea regularly, and have yet to see it satisfactorily translated into perfume).2 But I did like several others in the line, and so here are brief reviews:

I’ll start with Tabac Citron (shown above) because it’s so likable…

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Ayala Moriel New Orleans ~ new fragrance

Posted by Robin on 11 March 2011 13 Comments

Ayala Moriel New Orleans

Indie natural brand Ayala Moriel has launched New Orleans, a new unisex fragrance:

The New Orleans scent is bright, mossy, and delightful…

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Perry Ellis Love, Demeter Naturals Vetiver ~ new fragrances

Posted by Robin on 5 March 2011 11 Comments

Perry Ellis Love perfume

Perry Ellis has launched Perry Ellis Love, a new perfume for women:

Bold, refreshing and sensual, Perry Ellis Love…

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