Le Labo has launched Tubereuse 40, a new fragrance developed by perfumer Alberto Morillas. Tubereuse 40 is described as a…
…non-heady Tubereuse shaped around citruses and musks that give it an unexpected unisex “eau de cologne” identity despite its impressive 30% dosage of oil in alcohol. As in all Le Labo’s fragrance names, the number to the right of the natural ingredient indicates the number of ingredients…
Today Marlen and I are discussing Neroli 36, one of the 10 fragrances launched by Le Labo this year. The unisex fragrance was created by nose Daphne Bugey, and features neroli, mandarin orange, rose, jasmine, calone, musk, tonka bean and vanilla.
He says: Being a fan of all things neroli/orange blossom, I consider myself a pretty harsh critic. But I gotta say — Le Labo Neroli is…wow! Floral and somewhat powdery, with undercurrents of marine notes, Neroli’s mélange of rose, jasmine, musk, vanilla, mandarin and neroli is a breath of fresh air, grander than the typical eau de cologne and more complex than a mere single note floral. I’ve read of comparisons to Frederic Malle’s En Passant, and I’d have to agree, though the doughy iris notes and powdery lilac have been replaced with vanilla and a jasmine/rose pairing…
Le Labo Vetiver 46 and il Profumo Vetiver de Java, like yesterday’s Vetyver by Parfums de Nicolaï, are not unadorned renditions of vetiver: if you want the root, straight up and simple, you’ll have to look elsewhere. Vetyver highlighted vetiver’s earthy green properties with strong spices; in the two fragrances considered here, the focus is on wood notes.
Vetiver de Java is from il Profumo, the Italian perfume house created by Silvana Casoli. It has notes of lavender, vetiver, birch, incense, red rose, Cashmere cypress, gaiac wood and oak moss. The opening is a burst of lavender, slightly harsh, with a touch of citrus. It settles into a mild blend of mossy-earthy woods, tinged green, with occasional drifts of incense smoke and a bit of rose hovering just underneath the surface…
Check out the new Le Labo website, which is beautifully designed (why do so many perfume houses have dull websites?) and includes full descriptions of all the fragrances in the line…
Patchouli 24 is one of the 10 fragrances launched last month by the new line Le Labo. It was developed by perfumer Annick Menardo, and has notes of patchouli, birch, styrax and vanilla.
As was the case with Le Labo’s Rose 31, this is not a fragrance to order unsniffed because you adore the note used as the fragrance name. There is patchouli, but it is not the main player, and I noticed it most in the early stages where it mingles with leather, tobacco leaf, burning wood and a touch of melting rubber. Patchouli 24 is very reminiscent of another Annick Menardo fragrance, Bvlgari Black. I was very rushed this weekend and only managed to try them together once, but I would say that the Patchouli 24 is deeper and more intently focused on the wood and earthy notes, and the vanilla dry down, when it arrives, is not quite so cushiony and soft…