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Browsing by tag: jean guichard

5 Perfumes for: a Flanker Skeptic

Posted by Erin on 13 March 2009 112 Comments

Hermes Eau de Orange VerteHermes Concentre de Orange Verte

Flankers make me cranky*. When a flanker is bad, it debases the coinage of the original. I recently spoke with a perfume sales assistant who refused to believe I smelled so lovely because I was wearing Boucheron Jaïpur Saphir. This is because I was not wearing Boucheron Jaïpur Saphir. I was wearing plain ol’ Jaïpur and said so — only to be told: “There is no Just Jaïpur.” With the dizzying rate of flankerizing and discontinuation as well as misinformation from friendly and seemingly authoritative sources, what hope has the average person of keeping this stuff straight?

Almost as irritating to me as a flanker that fails to live up to its predecessor is the sequel that succeeds on completely different terms. Dior Poison’s second flanker, Hypnotic Poison, for example, is a creamy, girlish dream of a fragrance, reminiscent of such wholesome smells as suntan lotion and root beer floats. I’m sure it would have sold at least equally well under another name. Why force a family resemblance where there is none? The only reason I can think of that is consistent with my experience of the perfume industry and buying public is that flankers must be cheaper to make. Presumably Dior saves on the bottle design and less thinking was required all around from the marketing team…

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Ego Facto ~ new perfume line

Posted by Robin on 12 February 2009 35 Comments

Ego Facto is a new perfume line from Pierre Aulas, and has debuted at Marionnaud in France with 7 perfumes: 4 for women and 3 for men:

Fool for Love for women was developed by perfumer Laurent Bruyère. The spicy floral features coconut punch accord, cinnamon, frangipani and woods.

Poopoo Pidoo is a powdery floral for women…

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Calvin Klein Obsession ~ an appreciation (of sorts)

Posted by Robin on 2 September 2008 86 Comments

Calvin Klein Obsession adverts

Calvin Klein launched Obsession in 1985, and it was the brand’s first blockbuster in fragrance, far outselling the two fragrances that preceded it (Calvin Klein for women and Calvin for men, both long discontinued). Like many of the fragrances of the period, it was not meant to speak softly:

“The name Obsession is big, like a movie poster for this era,” said Calvin Klein. “I think of everything I’ve ever done, how obsessed I was. Everyone is obsessed in the Eighties. And, of course, the name suggests an obsession with someone. A man obsessed by a woman.” (via Women’s Wear Daily, 1/18/1985)

Obsession hit its mark perfectly; based on the steamy advertising and magazine scent strips, it reportedly sold out at many stores before they even had the first shipment in stock…

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Hermes Eau d’Orange Verte & Concentre d’Orange Verte: fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 25 July 2006 12 Comments

Hermes Eau d'Orange Verte

Hermès introduced Eau d’Orange Verte in 1979 (the original name was Eau de Cologne d’Hermès; it was renamed Eau d’Orange Verte in 1997). It was created by perfumer Francoise Caron and has notes of bergamot, lemon, mandarin, mint, jasmine, orange blossom, patchouli, moss and cedar.

Eau d’Orange Verte is a citrus chypre, along the lines of Ô de Lancôme or Eau de Rochas. It starts with a slap of citrus, very sharp and acidic. The sharpness fades into a very dry orange under a heavy veil of herbal green and what smells to me like petitgrain. There is a whisper of dry florals, and a lovely mossy woods base.

It is currently marketed as a unisex fragrance, but I believe it was originally introduced as a men’s. When I first tried it several years ago, I thought it too masculine to wear…

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