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Browsing by tag: jean claude ellena

Frederic Malle Angeliques sous la Pluie ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 25 July 2011 52 Comments

Frederic Malle Angeliques sous la Pluie

While the rest of the nation has suffered from heat, we’ve had moderate temperatures and summer rain. I’m not talking about the wild, ozonic thunderstorms that erupt late afternoons in the eastern states. (How I miss them and fireflies.) I mean cold rain that eases earthy smells from the city, while soft, warm air pillows its splatter. In other words, it’s been perfect weather for Frédéric Malle Angéliques sous la Pluie.

Angéliques sous la Pluie was part of Frédéric Malle’s initial release of perfumes in 2000. Among the house’s line, Angéliques sous la Pluie doesn’t seem to get a lot of attention. I think it’s worth a second look.

Iconic nose Jean-Claude Ellena created Angéliques sous la Pluie, adding notes of angelica leaves, juniper berries, coriander, musk, and sweet cedar. In Perfumes: The A – Z Guide, Luca Turin compares Angéliques sous la Pluie to a wormwood-based Swiss liqueur, and not favorably. I’m not sure I’ve ever had a Swiss liqueur, so that comparison doesn’t prejudice my opinion…

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Journal d’un parfumeur by Jean-Claude Ellena ~ perfume books

Posted by Cheryl on 24 June 2011 30 Comments

Journal d'un parfumeur by Jean Claude Ellena

L’odeur est un mot, le parfum est la littérature / Odor is a word, perfume is literature (7). In brief entries dating October 29, 2009 to October 13, 2010, Journal d’un Parfumeur reveals a year in the life (or, rather, the mind) of perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena, and celebrates the connections between language, contemplation and perfumery. Ellena offers a selective self-portrait via bright anecdotes, thoughtful vignettes and philosophical musings, blended with a hearty dose of opinion and a splash of high-brow name-dropping. Places and dates anchor the journal entries, along with brief titles, many of which would would make terrific perfume monikers: Plaisir; Nébuleux; Juxtaposition Toujours la menthe; Classique; Clin de nez; Bill Evans; Bricolage; Moleskine; and Shazam (yes, as in the iPhone app, and yes, related to identifying smells on the streets of Paris).

It turns out that language plays a vital role in Ellena’s creative process as well. Le nom est un son qui doit accrocher tous vos sens, il est le premier contact avec le parfum / The name is a sound that must capture all the senses; it is the first contact with the perfume (40). Describing works in progress — perfume formulae that may never be produced — Ellena explains that names help him to organize and track his creations. Féminin H, Vétiver de Calèche, Cuir de Bel Ami, and Fleur de Porcelaine could have been assigned numerical codes, but only words hold keys to each perfume’s histoire (which fittingly means both history and story in French). My favorite of these draft names, Eau de mandarine bleue, evokes Surrealist writer Paul Eluard’s poem, “The earth is blue like an orange…”

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Hermes Jardin Sur Le Toit ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 7 April 2011 121 Comments

Hermès Un Jardin Sur Le Toit fragrance

Un Jardin Sur Le Toit, the latest in the garden series from Hermès, spurns the exotic inspirations of its predecessors (Un Jardin en Méditerranée, Un Jardin Sur Le Nil and Un Jardin Après La Mousson); instead perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena celebrates the rooftop garden at the Hermès building at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris (although for some of us, a rooftop garden on the Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré is hardly the stuff of everyday life).

And what, pray tell, do we get from the Hermès rooftop garden? Apples and pears, apples and pears. Apples and pears, though hardly new to perfume, seem to be the notes du jour, and as I’ve already mentioned they’re not exactly my favorites.

Jardin Sur Le Toit starts out grapefruity-citrusy and sharp…

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Happiness can be very close to us

Posted by Robin on 23 March 2011 12 Comments

After we launched the first Garden perfume, other companies came up with the same approach. We wanted the fourth perfume to be a surprise. Also, no one could come up with a perfume like Un Jardin sur le Toit because we drew inspiration from our very own garden. This reflects why we don't really need to find another world when happiness can be very close to us.

— Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena, quoted in Familiar scents close to home at the Bangkok Post.

Hermes Jardin Sur Le Toit ~ new fragrance

Posted by Robin on 12 February 2011 38 Comments

Hermes Jardin Sur Le Toit perfume

Hermès will launch Un Jardin Sur Le Toit (garden on the roof) in April. The inspiration: the garden on the roof of the Hermès building at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. The new unisex fragrance is the fourth in the garden series that already includes Un Jardin en Méditerranée (2003), Un Jardin Sur Le Nil (2005) and Un Jardin Après La Mousson (2008)…

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