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Browsing by tag: jean claude ellena

Hermes Epice Marine ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 12 November 2013 48 Comments

Hermès Épice Marine, Hermessence series

A new fragrance in the upscale Hermessence range from French house Hermès always makes me happy, even when I don’t love the juice — it’s pretty rare that one has bored me, although it has happened. The new Épice Marine is number 11 in the series, and it falls squarely in the very-interesting-but-don’t-adore-it category, which makes me even happier; as I pointed out in my review of Jour d’Hermès, the brand has taken the lion’s share of my perfume spending already. I will be perfectly happy with the 15 ml travel size I have already purchased, and presumably Hermès will continue to prosper even if I don’t shell out for the full-sized bottle.

So, Épice Marine. The fragrance is about spices and the ocean: it was developed in a collaborative process between Hermès house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena and Breton “pirate chef” Olivier Roellinger, and was inspired by their mutual love of spices and the smell of the sea…

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Hermes Epice Marine ~ new fragrance

Posted by Robin on 8 July 2013 29 Comments

Hermessences

Hermès will launch Epice Marine, the latest in the Hermessence series, in September. The theme, as captured in the name, is spices and the ocean, and the fragrance was developed in a sort of collaboration between Hermès house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena and chef Olivier Roellinger…

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Hermes Eau de Mandarine Ambree ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 20 June 2013 33 Comments

Hermès Eau de Mandarine Ambrée

Eau de Mandarine Ambrée is one of two new 2013 offerings in the unisex Cologne Collection at Hermès, the other being Eau de Narcisse Bleu. Both were developed by house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena, who notes that Mandarine Ambrée “is quite immediate, the other [Narcisse Bleu] is more complex.” The same contrast might be drawn between the last two additions to the series, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose and Eau de Gentiane Blanche,1 and once again, I find that I prefer the immediate: Eau de Mandarine Ambrée is easily my favorite; Eau de Narcisse Bleu, like Gentiane Blanche, is arguably the more interesting of the pair but was just a tad too mild for my tastes.2

Mandarine Ambrée, which features mandarin, passion fruit and amber, has a similar sparkling start as the Pamplemousse Rose, albeit with much less (but surely some) grapefruit. It’s bright and cheerful, with a beautifully juicy and tart mandarin note that gradually gets fruitier, fuller and sweeter, and then slightly woody, with a sheer amber base and a slight dash of vanilla. It isn’t heavy…

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The Diary of a Nose and Perfume: The Alchemy of Scent by Jean-Claude Ellena ~ perfume books review

Posted by Aleta on 18 June 2013 4 Comments

The Diary of a Nose by Jean-Claude EllenaPerfume: The Alchemy of Scent by Jean-Claude Ellena

“Craftsman, artist: I have never managed to settle for one or the other of these definitions for myself,” perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena wrote in The Diary of a Nose: A Year in the Life of a Parfumeur, published in English last January. “I feel like a craftsman when I am completely wrapped up in making a perfume; I feel like an artist when I imagine the perfume I need to make. In fact, I constantly juggle with the two standpoints. If perfume is first and foremost a creation of the mind, it cannot actually be created without the mastery of true skill.”

Diary of a Nose follows Ellena’s first book, Perfume: The Alchemy of Scent, a short volume on the fragrance industry released in English in 2009. As Marcello noted in his review of Alchemy of Scent in its original French edition, Le Perfum: Que-sais je? (2007), Ellena uses “some of his well-known creations to explain what he regards as the essence of his profession.” For those who have read industry basics before, the chapters on history, materials, classification, and marketing will be familiar, but told with more depth…

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A profusion of flowers

Posted by Robin on 22 April 2013 2 Comments

Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena talks briefly about Jour d’Hermès. If you missed the fragrance commercial, it is here.

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