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Atelier Cologne Jasmin Angelique ~ fragrance review

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Atelier Cologne Jasmin Angélique

I can’t believe it’s October already. I recently came across the sample of Atelier Cologne’s Jasmin Angélique that a friend passed to me over lunch one day back in July. That visit is still very fresh in my memory, and at the same time it seems much too long ago. That’s how things are with long-distance friends. Now Jasmin Angélique is inextricably bound in my imagination to that happy afternoon; fortunately, it lives up to that challenge for me.

Jasmin Angélique is the latest addition to Atelier’s Cologne Absolue collection, and it’s described as “a mysterious path to a secret garden”…

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Serge Lutens La Religieuse ~ perfume review

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Serge Lutens La Religieuse brand graphic

Deliver us from Good!
Jasmine petals are as white as snow.
Black is my religion.1

I will say this for Serge Lutens, he continues to tempt me. And if you find elaborate but cryptic back story appealing, he is obviously your man.2 But it’s been some time since I’ve parted with my money for a new Serge Lutens fragrance, and my piggy bank is safe from La Religieuse.

La Religieuse, if you have been paying attention, is billed as the brand’s latest take on jasmine, following A La Nuit (“This jasmine has only one thought in its head: paint the town white!”) and Sarrasins (“I took white jasmine and contrived to make it as black as a panther, as black as night, which is embodied in this fragrance.”).3 The name has obvious religious connotations, but also calls up the pastry, shown just below in a (likewise enticing) violet version from Ladurée. Add to this the few notes mentioned in the press besides jasmine — musk, civet and incense — and yes, you could say I was interested…

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Hermes Le Jardin de Monsieur Li ~ fragrance review, with an aside on Rose Amazone

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Hermès Le Jardin de Monsieur Li, brand drawing and bottle

“I remembered the smell of ponds, the smell of jasmine, the smell of wet stones, of plum trees, kumquats and giant bamboos. It was all there, and in the ponds there were even carp steadily working towards their hundredth birthday.” — Jean-Claude Ellena1

Le Jardin de Monsieur Li is the fifth fragrance in the Jardin series from Hermès, and reportedly the last.2 I do not know if it is also the last scent we’ll see from perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena, but either way, smelling it gave me an advance pang of nostalgia. I will miss Jean-Claude Ellena when he retires.3

Le Jardin de Monsieur Li is an aromatic citrus, reportedly inspired by a Chinese garden. The notes (something like kumquat, mint, jasmine and sap) sounded tantalizing, but as is often the case with Hermès and Jean-Claude Ellena, the juice is not quite what I expected…

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Providence Perfume Co Ivy Tower, Sweet Jasmine Brown & Violet Beauregarde ~ fragrance reviews

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Providence Perfume Co Ivy Tower, Sweet Jasmine Brown & Violet Beauregarde

Last week I reviewed three new natural perfumes from Providence Perfume Co: Rose 802, Orange Blossom Honey and Summer Yuzu. This week I have some brief thoughts on the other three, all of which are similarly light-hearted and wearable. They also have fun sources of inspiration.

Ivy Tower might, I’m guessing, be a play-on-words evoking the academic “ivory towers” of Providence’s own Ivy League institution, Brown University. In any case, it’s billed as “a delicate green floral evocative of a rain soaked path through the ivy,” and that’s a perfect description…

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Niche x 3: Eau d’Italie Graine de Joie, Memo Kedu, Van Cleef & Arpels California Reverie

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Quick reviews of three recent niche releases: Eau d’Italie Graine de Joie, Memo Kedu and Van Cleef & Arpels California Reverie. Do comment if you’ve tried any new or interesting niche fragrances lately!

Eau d’Italie Graine de Joie

Eau d'Italie Graine de Joie

Is anyone here a massive fan of Eau d’Italie? I admit I’ve mostly lost interest; nothing they’ve done since Baume du Doge in 2008 has really impressed me, and the shampoo-ish packaging is a turn-off. Graine de Joie, intended to celebrate love, is a sweet ‘n tart fruity floral…

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