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Browsing by tag: jasmine

Open-ended jasmine ban

Posted by Robin on 11 May 2011 22 Comments

Less well known are the tribulations endured by the tawny-skinned men and women who grow ornamental jasmine here in Daxing, a district on the rural fringe of the capital. They say prices have collapsed since March, when the police issued an open-ended jasmine ban at a number of retail and wholesale flower markets around Beijing.

— Jasmine is in trouble in China. Read more at Catching Scent of Revolution, China Moves to Snip Jasmine at the New York Times. Thanks to Kevin for the link!

p.s. I'm posting this because I find it interesting that a flower can be a victim of political maneuverings, but as regular readers know, we try to avoid talking politics around here. Keep that in mind if you'd like to comment, or, leave your comments over at the New York Times where you can probably say (nearly) whatever you like.

Jennifer Aniston by Jennifer Aniston ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 14 April 2011 79 Comments

Jennifer Aniston Eau de Parfum

Jennifer Aniston’s eponymous fragrance, which debuted last year in the UK, has finally reached US shores. I am better placed to talk about it than I am with many celebrity fragrances, insofar as I actually know who Jennifer Aniston is — doesn’t everybody? She’s one of our more likable celebrities, I should think, although whether that will translate into major sales remains to be seen, and she did not get a contract with one of the biggies, like Coty or Elizabeth Arden or Estee Lauder. Her fragrance was made with Falic Fashion Group, who also holds the fragrance licenses for Perry Ellis and the recently launched Original Penguin.

As many of you will remember, Aniston, like many celebrities who are gearing up for a fragrance launch, started out by talking about how she didn’t really like strong, perfume-y fragrances; fragrances she particularly named as too strong included Miss Dior, Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs, Hermès Calèche and an unnamed body splash that was probably Jean Naté. Her fragrance, which was at that time to be called Lolavie (the name got dropped shortly before the launch), was to be “sexy and clean” and “floral, but not too flowery”, and (my personal favorite) to smell “unique on every woman’s skin”.

The scent itself, which includes notes of citrus grove accord, rose water, night blooming jasmine, wild violets, Amazon lily, musk, amber and sandalwood, is meant to recall night blooming jasmine on a warm California evening, and salty air and tropical oils, and long sunny days on the beach. Aniston grew up in California, and the finished product has a distinct resemblance to the fragrances that I think of as the “California perfume oils”…

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By Kilian Love and Tears ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 3 February 2011 66 Comments

Jasminum sambac 'Grand Duke of Tuscany'

It is a testament to the ongoing deluge of new perfumes, niche and not niche, that Love and Tears (Surrender) launched last year and I promptly forgot all about it, even though it’s a jasmine soliflore, a category of perfumes that I have some interest in, and even though I apparently got a sample shortly after it launched. Love and Tears is by perfumer Calice Becker, an obvious bonus, and it’s from By Kilian, which might or might not be a bonus depending on your point of view (By Kilian makes me a little cranky, as I’ve mentioned before).1

The back story, according to Mr. Kilian Hennessy:

Only the jasmine flower, with its endless spectrum of facets — citrus, green, floral and animalistic — was able to express the profusion of emotions that I wanted to communicate with this scent: the beginning of love marked with excitement, the fear of the unknown, and, ultimately, the surrender to love!

Mostly, though, they left out the animalistic part, and arguably even the “surrender to love”, and certainly the tears. Love and Tears is, perhaps, too richly floral to be the early, innocent days of love, but it’s too easygoing to be anything like surrender…

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Nasomatto Nuda ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 3 January 2011 39 Comments

Nasomatto Nuda perfume

From its name, you’d think Nasomatto Nuda was a skin scent. From the ultra-cool and slightly irritating Nasomatto website (hint: turn off your speakers), you’d suspect Nuda was assertive and on the rock and roll side of Comme des Garçon’s indie style. What you wouldn’t know were the notes, since Nasomatto doesn’t list them, instead preferring to toss out thoughts about the perfume such as “the unexpected tranquility of giving up oneself without concern for boundary”, “hazy intuition of a depth that undoes distance”, and a “quest to find a vanishing point in nature, the translucence of our senses, nude desire”.

Nuda isn’t a skin scent or a “bad boy” fragrance but is a whopping indolic jasmine. Nasomatto nose Alessandro Gualtieri is frank about basing his fragrances partly on his experiences with drugs (see the Nasomatto manifesto), but in the case of Nuda, I’d say the PR copy is more likely than the fragrance to be the result of a trip. As loud as Nuda is at first, in the end it’s elegant and calm — almost ladylike…

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Aftelier Candide ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 30 November 2010 33 Comments

Aftelier Candide ParfumAftelier Candide Eau de Parfum

Perfumer Mandy Aftel of indie natural line Aftelier calls her new Candide “a bright, uplifting floral, expressing its theme of optimism through sublime jasmine and age-old frankincense”. I’ll second the description. This is a resolutely happy scent — just the sort of thing to add some cheer to a dreary winter day — with a simply lovely citrus opening (blood orange and grapefruit) that lingers far longer than you’d expect from an all-natural fragrance, and then some. It’s juicy and bright, and sweetish in that citrus jam sort of way that doesn’t give you a toothache. The jasmine is slightly indolic but not too dirty,1 and the incense is light and airy.

Candide has knocked Aftelier’s Cepes and Tuberose into second-favorite status, although I tried Cepes again this week, and in a perfect world I’d have piles of money and own bottles of both. It’s Candide in particular I’d like to bathe in, though: it’s that happy…

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