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Browsing by tag: jacques polge

Chanel No. 19 and No. 19 Poudre ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 29 August 2011 119 Comments

Chanel No. 19 Poudré

No matter how many fragrances Chanel’s line up features, Chanel No. 5 hogs the limelight. Yet supposedly Coco Chanel’s favorite, the one she named after her birth date, was No. 19. Rumor is she kept No. 19 out of mass production so she could wear it herself and give bottles to special clients and friends.

In 1971, after Mademoiselle’s death, Chanel released No. 19 to the public. Chanel’s website describes the fragrance, developed by perfumer Henri Robert, as “A rich blend of floral and green notes, followed by May Rose and Iris from Florence. The finale: a chime of Chypre with a subtle, woody Vetiver note.” It goes on to say No. 19 is “Audacious and assertive. Never conventional.”

If No. 5 is the grande dame with pearls and Champagne, No. 19 is the ingénue. While No. 5 sits in the living room with nattily dressed suitors, No. 19 is getting back from a ride through the forest on a summer day…

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I’ll walk all over you

Posted by Robin on 25 June 2011 39 Comments

Perhaps unsurprisingly, Sheldrake's take is less extreme. "It's important to remember that No 19 was created at the beginning of the 1970s, an era notable for the fact that women's emancipation was at its height. The original No 19 was created in the spirit of the first wave of feminism and it therefore has something of an 'I'll walk all over you' aspect to it, I agree."

No 19 Poudré , as perhaps befits the time, "is a more obviously feminine fragrance," Polge argues.

— Perfumers Christopher Sheldrake and Jacques Polge talk about the upcoming Chanel No 19 Poudré.

Update: huge apologies, I inadvertently left out the link to the original article! Here it is: One green bottle: Meet the brains – and noses – behind Chanel No 19 at The Independent.

Chanel No. 19 Poudre ~ new fragrance

Posted by Robin on 10 June 2011 67 Comments

Chanel No. 19 Poudré perfume

Chanel will launch No. 19 Poudré, a flanker to 1971’s Chanel No. 19. The new fragrance honors the iris pallida note, and reportedly reveals a new powdery-musky facet…

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Chanel Antaeus ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 2 February 2011 36 Comments

My friend Carmen, who’s a nurse at a big Seattle hospital, recently said to me: “I’m turning into a man.” This being Seattle, I thought she might be thinking of having a sex change operation. When I asked her to explain herself, she said she’d noticed as women age they become more masculine looking (and men start to look more feminine). Females “toughen” — males “soften.” In perfume years, Chanel Antaeus is an elderly “guy”: 30 years old…and unless my nose is fooling me, Antaeus has become more feminine with age.

Antaeus*, developed by Chanel house perfumer Jacques Polge, begins with the scents of aldehydes, moss and a vibrant “green” note (part sage, part pine needle?) As the aldehydes/moss burn off, I smell a mild leather aroma blending with a wonderful honeyed tobacco note. The base of Antaeus smells of sweet, soft (almost powdery) woods and musk…

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A fragrance that shakes things up

Posted by Robin on 5 September 2010 18 Comments

I think it's important for a brand to have a fragrance that shakes things up. You know, the men's market is very particular. I know we went far with Egoïste, but I like it. It was good for Chanel. Brands today maybe don't have the courage that they used to.

— Perfumer Jacques Polge talks about Chanel's fragrances for men in Q&A with Legendary Chanel Perfumer Jacques Polge at Hint magazine. Many thanks to Pedro for the link!

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