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Browsing by tag: isabelle doyen

Annick Goutal Nuit Etoilee ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 26 April 2012 104 Comments

Annick Goutal Nuit Étoilée advert

How much does a perfume’s back story matter to you? It has long been an axiom in the fragrance industry that the back story is key to commercial success. Along with the other design elements — the packaging, the advertising, etc — it ought to help attract the appropriate consumer audience, and to allow the customer to make an emotional connection with the fragrance and the brand. When it works, it works, when it doesn’t…well, that’s essentially why we do the Prix Eau Faux, right? And why young people everywhere rolled their eyes at Calvin Klein In2U (to name just one egregious misfire) before they even smelled it.

I was thinking of all this when I first smelled the latest from Annick Goutal, the unisex fragrance Nuit Étoilée. The name makes reference to Van Gogh’s masterpiece, and the brand’s press materials mention a “dream world” and a solitary communion with nature…

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LesNez Turtle Vetiver Front & Tableau de Parfums Dark Passage ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Robin on 15 March 2012 41 Comments

Today, I’m looking at two niche fragrances: LesNez Turtle Vetiver Front and Tableau de Parfums Dark Passage. They don’t really have all that much in common other than that they’re both limited edition fragrances made in support of outside projects. Oh, and I like them both.

LesNez Turtle Vetiver Front

LesNez Turtle Vetiver Front

Turtle Vetiver Front is the latest from Swiss niche line LesNez. It’s the second in their series of vetiver fragrances made in support of the Turtle “anarchic” salon (about which I know nearly nothing, but you can read more here). Vetiver Front was developed by perfumer Isabelle Doyen, and I adored her first in the series, Turtle Vetiver Exercise No. 1. I thought of Exercise No. 1 (which I believe is now sold out) as a kind of vetiver for vetiver freaks…

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Annick Goutal Nuit Etoilee ~ new fragrance

Posted by Robin on 2 March 2012 22 Comments

Annick Goutal Nuit Étoilée

Annick Goutal will launch Nuit Étoilée (starry night), a new unisex fragrance, this spring…

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LesNez Turtle Vetiver Front ~ new fragrance

Posted by Robin on 21 February 2012 15 Comments

LesNez Turtle Vetiver Front

Swiss niche line LesNez has launched Turtle Vetiver Front, the second in the limited edition series that began in 2009 with Turtle Vetiver Exercise No. 1. Turtle Vetiver Front was developed by perfumer Isabelle Doyen…

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Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Cheri Par Camille ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 6 January 2012 60 Comments

Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Chéri Par Camille

One of the long-running best-sellers in the Annick Goutal line is Petite Chérie (1998), a girlish fruity-floral that Annick Goutal dedicated to her daughter Camille. Camille has now reciprocated by devoting a fragrance to her mother’s memory: it is a spicy floral chypre titled Mon Parfum Chéri par Camille and its composition includes Indonesian patchouli, iris, violet, plum, and heliotropin.

Mon Parfum Chéri par Camille is partially inspired by a vintage solid perfume from Annick Goutal’s fragrance collection (originally a gift from the author Colette!); working with the perfumer Isabelle Doyen, Camille Goutal was also “drawn back to her childhood memories of Hollywood’s wartime movies. Tempting satin. Delicate lace. Actresses and their gloved hands and ruby lips. And a memory of her mother dressing for an evening out…” For me, Mon Parfum Chéri par Camille succeeds in this evocation. It’s old-fashioned, in a full-bodied, self-possessed way, and it really is most appropriate for evening wear (although I normally avoid that kind of fragrance-wearing instruction).

When I sniff Mon Parfum Chéri from the sample vial, I notice plenty of patchouli…

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