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Browsing by tag: immortelle

Annick Goutal Sables ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 8 June 2016 48 Comments

Annick Goutal Sables

Annick Goutal created Sables1 over 30 years ago, and I’m happy to be the one reviewing it here (at long last). Goutal used the shrublands of Corsica, one of her favorite vacation spots, as inspiration for Sables, whose main ingredient, immortelle (Helichrysum italicum), grows naturally there and is also planted on farms for use by companies such as L’Occitane. Sables was a gift for Goutal’s beloved husband, the cellist Alain Meunier; they had met and fallen in love as young music students, then drifted apart for decades before meeting again and marrying. (Grand Amour is another Goutal creation that pays homage to their life together.) Sables represents a perfumer’s love for a place and a man…très romantique.

Sables was one of the first niche fragrances I bought (and I’ve owned many bottles over the years). I’ve not smelled Sables in a long time (from a new bottle, that is) and was almost afraid to sniff it after smelling the recently re-released, tweaked (and scoured) Annick Goutal Eau de Monsieur….

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Atelier Cologne Blanche Immortelle ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 20 August 2014 23 Comments

Helichrysum prostratum

The East Coast has remained relatively (and uncharacteristically) cool and fresh this summer; out west, we’ve simmered and sweated (even in Seattle). Though I’ve done plenty of complaining about the heat, it’s been fun to experience a real summer for the first time in a … decade? I’ve been dousing myself with sunscreens, Eaux de Cologne, and perfumes with lots of jasmine, coconut and tropical flowers in them (beach-y things). Into this hot-weather perfume extravaganza, came a sample of Atelier Cologne Blanche Immortelle1 — an autumn scent.

Blanche Immortelle is part of Atelier Cologne’s Collection Métal which also includes Gold Leather, Silver Iris and Santal Carmin. When I first received my sample and dabbed an arm with Blanche Immortelle, I was not impressed; and I even told Robin here at NST that it was a nonentity and I would not be reviewing it. Weeeeeeell, I realized yesterday I got my samples mixed up; the nonentity is By Kilian Vodka on the Rocks. When I put a real application of Blanche Immortelle on my skin, I was much happier…

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Etat Libre d’Orange The Afternoon of a Faun ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 20 February 2013 25 Comments

faune

As usual, Etat Libre d’Orange loads its newish release, The Afternoon of a Faun, with lots of backstory: Stéphane Mérimée’s poem L’après-midi d’un faune, Vaslav Nijinsky’s ballet (nymphs! sex!), and…uh…Mx* Justin Vivian Bond, who is given equal credit (and ad space) for developing the fragrance with perfumer Ralf Schwieger. (I can’t believe Ralf is pleased.) There’s a world of difference between Nijinsky’s The Afternoon of a Faun and Bond’s…Shortbus (though I can’t believe Etat Libre d’Orange didn’t try for a perfume tie-in with that film); when Nijinsky is “present,” even in a still photograph or grainy film clip, everyone else pales.

The Afternoon of a Faun perfume goes on “liquor-y” — with rich citrus, a touch of jasmine, and lots of immortelle. Out of that initial triad, immortelle is heaviest and longer lasting; it dominates the next phase of development too, but in mid-development it’s augmented with whiffs of rosy incense. In its final phase, The Afternoon of a Faun presents sweet, woody myrrh accented with pepper; its base notes have a waxy sheen, as if the lingering immortelle had been dipped in beeswax…

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L’Occitane Immortelle de Corse ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 2 November 2011 45 Comments

L'Occitane Immortelle de Corse

On paper (literally), L’Occitane’s new Immortelle de Corse* fragrance smells an awful lot like real, almost “pure,” immortelle. As I sniffed a blotter spritzed with Immortelle de Corse, I thought: “Nice…simple immortelle,” but when I put Immortelle de Corse on my skin, it smelled completely different, much more interesting and complex.

Immortelle de Corse includes notes of rose, black tea, benzoin, iris, musk and (natural) immortelle. Immortelle de Corse starts off with the scents of maple syrup, honey and black tea leaves (the ‘tea’ is very fresh and floral in character, and it lasts and lasts); there’s also a hay-dried straw aroma that intensifies and becomes a tad musty (pleasantly musty)…

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La Lavande & L’Immortelle

Posted by Robin on 7 April 2011 15 Comments

First, A short video about growing lavender in Provence. Below the jump, growing immortelle in Corsica. Both videos are from L’Occitane.

See also: another video about lavender, this one from Lush. Plus, vetiver, neroli, sandalwood, ylang.

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