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Browsing by tag: hermes

Hermes Caleche Soie de Parfum fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 3 October 2005 24 Comments

Hermes Caleche perfume

Calèche was released by Hermès in 1961, and for many years it was their best-selling women’s fragrance. It was created by nose Guy Robert, and includes bergamot, mandarin, orange blossom, aldehydes, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, gardenia, iris, ylang-ylang, oakmoss, sandalwood, cedar, and vetiver.

In 1992, Hermès released Calèche Soie de Parfum, a reformulated version that they hoped would appeal to a younger, more modern consumer. According to Women’s Wear Daily (3/27/1992), they “heightened and brightened” the floral notes, and cut back on the powdery wood notes. That is the scent I am reviewing today. I have never tried the original parfum, and I have no idea if it has been reformulated as well. If you know, please comment…

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Hermes Hiris ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 19 September 2005 68 Comments

Hermes Hiris fragrance

Hiris was released by Hermès in 1999. The name refers to the iris flower, but also to the goddess Iris, who like Hermes was celebrated in Greek mythology as a messenger of the gods. The fragrance was created by nose Olivia Giacobetti, who used iris in the top, heart, and base notes, along with neroli, carrots, coriander, hay, rose, ambrette seeds, almond wood, cedar, honey, and vanilla.

The opening notes are simply stunning: crisp, dry and peppery iris, with lots of dirt-caked roots and greenery. I did not recognize the carrot note until I smelled L’Artisan Fleur de Carotte, and so learned what a carrot translated into perfumery smells like. Yes, there is carrot in Hiris too, although only for a brief while. As it dries down, the high pitched, almost metallic hum of the top notes calms, and the hay and wood notes intensify, along with a tiny whisper of rose…

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New & upcoming perfumes: Givenchy, Hermes & L'Artisan

Posted by Robin on 16 September 2005 32 Comments

As previously reported, Givenchy is gearing up to launch a Harvest Collection, starting with a new version of Amarige this December. It will feature “the ‘green sensation’ of the 2005 mimosa harvest in its top notes along with tender orange blossom notes”, with the mimosa from Grasse making up 25% of the juice…

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Hermessence Collection: Vetiver Tonka

Posted by Robin on 23 June 2005 38 Comments

Hermes Vetiver Tonka 15 ml, Hermessence collection

Continuing with Hermessence week, today I am wearing Vetiver Tonka, my vote for the best perfume in the collection. Like the others, it was created by Hermès house nose Jean Claude Ellena and launched in 2004. Hermès Vetiver Tonka is meant to suggest wool, and has notes of vetiver, neroli, bergamot, grilled hazelnut, dry fruit, cereals and tonka bean.

Vetiver Tonka starts off fresh and green, with vetiver and mild citrus. It is deep and rich — the top notes of Guerlain Vetiver smell like water in comparison — but it is not at all heavy, nor is it more than mildy sweet…

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Hermes Ambre Narguile (Hermessence Collection) ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 22 June 2005 44 Comments

Hermes Ambre Narguile

Like the others in the Hermessence line of fragrances (see Rose Ikebana and Poivre Samarcande), Ambre Narguile was created by Hermès house nose Jean-Claude Ellena and released in 2004. Ambre Narguile is meant to evoke cashmere, and features notes of benzoin, labdanum, musk, vanilla, caramel, honey, sugared tonka bean, grilled sesame seeds, cinnamon, rum, coumarine and white orchids.

All of the Hermessence perfumes are foody to one degree or another; Ambre Narguile is the dessert course of the quartet…

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