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Browsing by tag: green

Providence Perfume Co Branch & Vine ~ fragrance review, plus a quick green fragrance poll

Posted by Robin on 13 August 2013 95 Comments

Providence Perfume Co Branch & Vine, bottle plus greeneryProvidence Perfume Co Branch & Vine, bottle plus greenery

Providence Perfume Co has fast emerged as one of my favorite indie natural brands. I don’t like everything they make — Mousseline Pêche was not my cup of tea, and neither was Moss Gown, which sounded like it ought to be my cup of tea. Branch & Vine, their latest release, might as well have been tailor-made to suit my preferences, and to suit this time of year, when summer is winding down and I’d just as soon it lasted a bit (ok, much) longer.

Branch & Vine was inspired by a summer garden — “Verdant leafy greens, a tangle of tomato vine. Hints of muguet mingle with mimosa, jasmine and cooling violet leaf” — and that’s just what it smells like: greenery, not too bitter and not too heavy, sweetened by a few flowers along the way…

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Comme des Garcons Play Red, Black & Green, plus Amazingreen ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Robin on 13 September 2012 21 Comments

Comme des Garcons Play Red, Black & Green

A New Perfume, the latest from Comme des Garçons, is a welcome thing: I miss Comme des Garçons. They haven’t done anything under their own brand since 2010′s Wonderwood, and they haven’t done anything that I loved since their 2009 collaborative effort with Monocle, Monocle Scent Two: Laurel.

That was a quick summary I wrote when I reviewed A New Perfume [real name: Comme des Garçons Eau de Parfum] early this year, and since I didn’t love A New Perfume, or whatever you want to call it, it still stands. They’ve done four fragrances since then: a trio for their Play diffusion line, and the new Amazingreen for the regular line. In keeping with my penchant for giving away the ending, I didn’t wholeheartedly adore any of this set either, but I liked all of them better than the New Perfume thing.

Comme des Garçons Red Play, Black Play and Green Play

Comme des Garçons’ Play line launched in 2002, and features t-shirts, cardigans and other casual basics / accessories; most of the clothing would look like it came from the Gap but for the addition of the Play logo — the red heart with eyes that they also used on the first Play fragrance (2007). That fragrance had a likewise “casual basic” feel, which carries over into the new trio — Red Play, Black Play and Green Play…

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Tauer Perfumes Verdant ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 28 July 2011 45 Comments

Verdant is one of the three initial fragrance releases in the new Pentachords series from indie niche line Tauer Perfumes. If you remember, each of the Pentachords is to feature 5 synthetic molecules, no more, no less, no naturals. Tauer called the series a bit of a “mind game”, and I suppose limiting yourself in advance to a set number of materials is somewhat arbitrary, but I’ve no quarrel with it: whatever keeps the perfumer amused and challenged is fine with me; and surely the whole point of indie niche is that you can do what you want, right? As Tauer noted…

It’s a privilege to be smaller. I can do things Chanel can’t.1

Indeed.

Verdant opens citrusy and green and bright, and then quickly turns dark and dirty…

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Parfumerie Generale No. 24, Papyrus de Ciane ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 3 March 2010 70 Comments

Ophelia

Bring on the stems, leaves, grasses — I’m always in the mood for ‘green’ fragrances. Green-tinged perfumes are refreshing and often “cool” in tone; they convey the idea of “growth,” especially new growth of plants. Spring is the perfect time for a green cologne to debut, and I’ve been looking forward to smelling Parfumerie Generale Papyrus de Ciane (No. 24).

Perfumer Pierre Guillaume has gotten a lot of online media coverage for Papyrus de Ciane and much of it references his use of a legendary component of early 20th century fragrances: Mousse de Saxe. I’ll let others discuss the chemical composition of Mousse de Saxe and its reconfiguration for Papyrus de Ciane; my only “concern” is: How does Papyrus de Ciane smell on me?

Papyrus de Ciane’s “published” list of notes is varied (online at Parfumerie Generale only five components are mentioned: galbanum, broom, mild plant note, Mousse de Saxe, Silvanone® Supra (musk); in interviews, Guillaume has also mentioned bergamot, neroli, mugwort, cistus labdanum, lavender, clove, vetiver, incense and hedione.

Papyrus de Ciane begins with a mix of citrus, “white flowers” and delicious and strong galbanum (the galbanum crystallizes and turns soft and powdery fast); Papyrus de Ciane’s green notes are not wild and sharp…

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Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 11 January 2010 196 Comments

Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio perfume

I’ve been half afraid to seriously investigate the state of citrus these days. Have the new IFRA regulations destroyed my summer favorites, like Eau de Guerlain and Chanel Cristalle? If it turns out that they have — or will before they’re through — Annick Goutal’s new woody citrus, Ninféo Mio, will help to make up my new summer arsenal.

Like Annick Goutal’s last major fragrance release, Un Matin d’Orage, Ninféo Mio was inspired by a garden — in this case, a very specific garden, the Giardino di Ninfa (Ninfa garden) near Rome. The first thing you need to know about Ninféo Mio is that it’s green. Very green, from the start right through to the finish. The opening is sharp green citrus, rather acidic, and more dry than juicy — think Hermès Eau d’Orange Verte with more lemon than orange. There’s a fair amount of lavender in the early stages, and it adds an herbal cast to the scent, but it isn’t harsh or overwhelming; those of you who say lavender is a deal-breaker really ought to give this a shot anyway…

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