Ask me what I think of new fragrances these days, and prepare for a rant. “What happened to real perfume?” I’ll moan. “People used to appreciate smart fragrances. Perfume could be abstract and complex.” At that point I’ll drop my head and stare forlornly in the distance, trying my best to telegraph visions of forgotten Lanvins and Millots.
Thank goodness I’m so often wrong. For all the old beauties that have fallen out of production, gorgeous new perfumes are still being created. Le Labo Ylang 49 is real perfume.
Perfumer Frank Voelkl created Ylang 49. It has notes of ylang ylang, Pua Noa Noa,1 patchouli, oakmoss, sandalwood and benzoin. What Ylang 49 doesn’t smell like is an ylang ylang soliflore. The caramelized cold cream aroma of ylang ylang plays only a supporting role. What Ylang 49 does smell like is an honest-to-goodness floral chypre…
