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Browsing by tag: fragrance notes

It is absurd

Posted by Robin on 23 May 2014 13 Comments

If we ban citral from perfumes, of which certain elements are allergens, we should ban orange juice. It is absurd. We should not ban nature, only learn how to live with it.

— Frederic Malle, talking about new EU regulations concerning allergens in perfume. The regulations, expected to be adopted at the end of this year, will ban oakmoss, tree moss and HICC, an aromachemical used to make lily of the valley fragrances. Nine other aromachemicals, including citral, eugenol and coumarin, are under consideration for restrictions on the level of use. Read more at Perfume industry braces for tough new EU rules at Reuters.

Strategic raw materials

Posted by Robin on 4 March 2014 4 Comments

We now keep reserves of strategic raw materials – such as vetiver, vanilla and lavender – selected on the basis of three criteria: they can't be synthesised, only come from a single geographical source and are needed in large quantities.

— A spokesperson from Givaudan, quoted in Perfume manufacturers must cope with the scarcity of precious supplies at The Guardian. Perfumer Thierry Wasser, in the same article, jokes "What was Jean-Paul [Guerlain] thinking of when he put so much sandalwood in Samsara?"

Lazy weekend poll ~ notes!

Posted by Robin on 1 March 2014 388 Comments

3-poppies

A simple game: name a fragrance note you find difficult or unpleasant (first, maybe see if anyone else has already started a thread for that note).

Others can reply with the fragrance that helped them learn to appreciate that note. I’ve started the game off with patchouli (which I actually don’t hate anymore)…

Read the rest of this article »

The jasmine from Grasse has a special smell

Posted by Robin on 25 February 2014 4 Comments

Perfumer Christopher Sheldrake talks about the jasmine grown for Chanel No. 5 by the Mul family in Grasse.

Vanilla, saffron, patchouli

Posted by Robin on 21 October 2013 6 Comments

Vanilla, saffron, patchouli. For centuries, spices and flavorings like these have come from exotic plants growing in remote places like the jungles of Mexico or the terraced hillsides of Madagascar...

Now a powerful form of genetic engineering could revolutionize the production of some of the most sought-after flavors and fragrances. Rather than being extracted from plants, they are being made by genetically modified yeast or other micro-organisms cultured in huge industrial vats.

— Read more at What’s That Smell? Exotic Scents Made From Re-engineered Yeast at the New York Times. Hat tip to Steve!

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