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Browsing by tag: floral

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Pluriel Feminin ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 12 August 2014 16 Comments

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Pluriel féminin, brand image

Francis Kurkdjian is arguably the first perfumer to come out of the traditional fragrance & flavor company “system” and make a real success of a brand under his own name.1 Maison Francis Kurkdjian debuted in 2009, and it’s far from an obscure niche brand — I can find the fragrances at my local mall, in Neiman Marcus, where they currently occupy prime real estate on the fragrance counter (and I am told they are big sellers).

Pluriel is the latest duo. The women’s, Pluriel Féminin, is styled as a “grand, modern floral bouquet”,2 and I’d say it lives up to its billing…

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Thierry Mugler Supra Floral ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 5 August 2014 36 Comments

Hyacinth and leaves

The soliflore, reinvented around a remarkable flower, rare in perfume making, the hyacinth. A fluid, profound and richly-faceted flower, velvety, green and crisp, quickened by an unexpected ingredient with a fiery temperament, incense. The spicy aromas of a great perfume in a paroxysm of pure sensuality. Unsuspected mystery and depth.

«By blending notes of incense and an amber base, I imagined a hyacinth with a bold temperament, far from the idea of the emblematic, romantic flower. Supra Floral signals a seductive perfume for women and temptation for men.» Olivier POLGE1

The Thierry Mugler Les Exceptions series launched earlier this year, although they’re still very tightly distributed. Supra Floral was the first that caught my eye when I read about the collection, hyacinth fragrances being rather thin on the ground as it were. I bought an extra bottle of L’Artisan’s Jacinthe des Bois when they discontinued it so I’ve still some left, and there’s always Guerlain Chamade, although that one is not a soliflore. And there’s Tom Ford’s Ombre de Hyacinth, which made so little impression on me that I can hardly remember what it smells like. Do comment if there’s a lovely hyacinth soliflore I’ve forgotten…

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Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Peony and White Lilac ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 18 July 2014 22 Comments

Watercolor SL

Independent perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz recently launched two new floral fragrances, Peony and White Lilac. I have to confess that I don’t always stay abreast of this line’s new releases and projects, only because Hurwitz is quite prolific and the line is still primarily online-only, so I was happy when these two samples came my way. In case you were wondering: no, I will never tire of feminine floral perfumes!

Peony is an evocation of an entire day in the life of this springtime flower, from a dewy bud at dawn to a duskier blossom at nightfall…

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Maison Martin Margiela Replica Lazy Sunday Morning & Promenade in the Gardens ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 20 June 2014 20 Comments

Maison Martin Margiela Replica Lazy Sunday Morning & Promenade in the Gardens, brand visuals

Last month I reviewed three fragrances from the Maison Martin Margiela Replica fragrance collection: Flower Market, Beach Walk and Funfair Evening. This week I tested two more, Lazy Sunday Morning and Promenade in the Gardens.

Lazy Sunday Morning, developed by perfumer Louise Turner, is meant to suggest “silky skin, crumpled linen sheets and the reassuring scent of fresh laundry” in “Florence, 2003.” Its notes include aldehydes, pear accord, lily of the valley accord; iris accord, rose absolue [sic], orange flower accord; white musk accord, Indonesian patchouli oil and ambrette seeds absolute. Leaving aside the question of why Florence was chosen as the “location” for this perfume, how does Lazy Sunday Morning function as a “fresh and clean” fragrance?

Not very well, I don’t think…

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Maison Martin Margiela Replica Flower Market, Beach Walk & Funfair Evening ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 23 May 2014 23 Comments

Replica Flower Market, Beach Walk & Funfair Evening, bottles

The Maison Martin Margiela Replica fragrance collection has been available in Europe for a while, but it just arrived in the United States this spring. I’ve made some strategic visits to Sephora to sniff and spritz (and to request samples!), and I’m ready to share my thoughts on three of them: Flower Market, Beach Walk and Funfair Evening, originally launched in mid-2012. All three fragrances were developed for Maison Martin Margiela by perfumers Jacques Cavallier and Marie Salamagne.

Flower Market

Flower Market “carries the scent of fresh cut flowers in the buckets and vases of a Parisian flower market in 2011,” and its composition includes notes of crushed leaves, freesia, sambac jasmine from India, Egyptian jasmine, tuberose, rose from Grasse, peach, cedarwood and oakmoss. I inhaled Flower Market hoping for the leaves and the roses to stand out…

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