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Browsing by tag: estee lauder

A faint note of horse piss

Posted by Robin on 11 May 2024 7 Comments

Discovering that entrepreneur Estée Lauder once rejected an entire scent because she detected a faint note of horse piss was not on my bingo card for 2024. But according to author Michael Edwards—who highlights this moment in his latest book, American Legends: The Evolution of American Fragrances—the colorful anecdote helps Lauder seem more relatable to those of us who know her exclusively as beauty royalty.

— Read more in American Legends Reveals the Backstories Behind Some of Your Favorite Scents at Harper's Bazaar. (And you can see a partial list of the fragrances covered by the book here.)

It’s an interesting question. American fragrances, when you smell them close up, they’re not always that pretty, but in the air they resonate. That’s the American spirit. Estée Lauder believed that women expect American fragrances to start the way they end. She had little patience with this idea of top notes, of fragrances changing over time: It has to be straight, she believed. It has to be direct.

— Michael Edwards on the difference between American and French perfumes. Read more in Spotlight: Michael Edwards, Debuts American Legends at Fragrance Foundation Accords.

“To the French, perfume is liquid art; to the Italians, liquid style; to the Americans, liquid money,” Edwards said.

— Read more in A Journey Through American Fragrance with Michael Edwards at FIT Newsroom.

The foundations of the artisanal perfumery movement

Posted by Robin on 19 April 2024 8 Comments

Twenty-five years ago, I started working on Editions de Parfums in an attempt to create a direct link between the best perfumers in the industry and the most demanding public,” he continued. “In doing so, I created a platform where noses could express themselves fully and be so proud of their work that they would want to sign it with their names. I could not have foreseen that what became the first publishing house for ‘noses’ would reveal these artists to the world in such a powerful way, show the public that perfume can be an art form and lay the foundations of the artisanal perfumery movement.

— Frédéric Malle announced yesterday that he will step down from Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle (the brand was acquired by Estee Lauder in 2015). Read more in EXCLUSIVE: Frédéric Malle Is Leaving His Eponymous Fragrance Brand at Women's Wear Daily via Yahoo Life.

Each of these perfumes has a specific world

Posted by Robin on 17 February 2024 6 Comments

Frédéric Malle talks about the new Estée Lauder Legacy Collection: Azurée Legacy, Estée Legacy, Knowing Legacy, Private Collection Legacy and White Linen Legacy.

The daily lemming

Posted by Robin on 5 February 2024 23 Comments

This has been in the comments several times recently, but for anyone who missed it: The Legacy Fragrance Collection Discovery Coffret from Estée Lauder. "Experience two extraordinary scent artists. Five ingenious sensorial experiences. Iconic scents, ingeniously evolved. Mrs. Estée Lauder, the creator of indelible masterpieces. Frédéric Malle, the acclaimed perfume editor who has reimagined our legacy fragrances for the 21st century." $30 at Estée Lauder.

This is where she tortured perfumers

Posted by Robin on 2 February 2024 Leave a Comment

“The minute I sold my company to Estée Lauder, I said that I wanted to do this,” says Malle. [...]

“This is where she tortured perfumers,” Malle says with a laugh, gesturing around the ornately-decorated, jewel box-like space. (The view of Central Park is so breathtaking, one has to wonder if visitors ever found it distracting during meetings.) Malle is, of course, not being literal, but referring to Lauder’s famously high standards for fragrance. For example, Beautiful, a blend of orange flower, mandarin, and rose that launched in 1985 and went on to become one of the brand’s bestsellers, was the result of “many, many months” of Lauder mixing iterations at the very same desk that sits in the corner of her office today, says Malle.

— Frédéric Malle on the upcoming Estée Lauder Legacy Collection.  Read more in Reinventing a Beloved Fragrance Is Risky Business at Allure.

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