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Browsing by tag: edouard flechier

Parfums Montana Parfum de Peau ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 1 December 2014 33 Comments

Montana Parfum de Peau

The best way I can sum up Parfums Montana Parfum de Peau (originally released as Montana) is like this: Imagine that Niki de Saint Phalle and La Nuit de Paco Rabanne had a daughter, and they amped her baby formula with steroids. Other kids at school made fun of her for her big nose, protruding eyes and exceptional height. And when she turned 19, she became a supermodel. Parfum de Peau may be the ultimate jolie laide fragrance.

Jean Guichard composed the original Montana perfume in 1986. It’s not clear when the name change took place, but by 1991 it was being referred to in the press as Parfum de Peau. It was apparently reformulated later in the 1990s by Edouard Fléchier, and has no doubt been tweaked since. Its notes include peach, cassis, plum, pepper, cardamom, ginger, rose, tuberose, jasmine, ylang ylang, carnation, sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, civet, castoreum, amber, musk and frankincense.

In Perfume, Nigel Groom describes Parfum de Peau as an “avant-garde chypre.” As its list of notes hints, Parfum de Peau is something between a symphony and raucous nightclub…

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Frederic Malle Lys Mediterranee ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 4 January 2013 59 Comments

lily

I can never answer the question, “What is your favorite perfume?” However, if someone asked me to name my favorite contemporary fragrance house, I’d probably name Frédéric Malle’s Editions de Parfums. After all, this company is responsible for two of my favorite perfumes, Lipstick Rose and Iris Poudre, as well as several others that I wear on a regular basis, including L’Eau d’Hiver, En Passant — and Lys Méditerranée.

Lys Méditerranée is a “tribute” to the lily, designed to evoke “a scorching summer evening as the Mediterranean sea spray mingles with the spicy scent of ginger lilies.” It was developed by perfumer Edouard Fléchier and was released in 2000; its notes include ginger lily, lily of the valley, angelica root, orange flower, water lily, salicylates, ambrette seeds, musk and vanilla. The Frédéric Malle website describes Lys Méditerranée as “radiant,” and reviewers have often used the same adjective, for good reason…

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On accomplishing the impossible

Posted by Robin on 4 April 2007 10 Comments

Then some in-house people refused to mess with the formula and walked out, at which point Guerlain brought in the great Edouard Fléchier to fix the problem. He appears to have worked on it for a couple of years. Two days ago I got the new stuff, and it gives me great pleasure to report that Fléchier has done the impossible.

— Luca Turin likes the newly reformulated Guerlain Mitsouko. Read more in NZZ Folio.

Frederic Malle Une Rose fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 19 January 2007 33 Comments

orange rose

Continuing with this week’s rose theme (see Lancome Mille et Une Roses and Bond no. 9 West Side & Bryant Park), today we have Une Rose (update: renamed Rose Tonnerre in 2022) from Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums, an entirely different sort of rose, far from the quiet elegance of the Lancome or the stylish modernity of the Bonds. Une Rose was created by Edouard Fléchier, a perfumer best known for Christian Dior Poison, and includes notes of geranium, blue camomile, wine dregs, Turkish rose absolute, and truffle accord (patchouly accord, vetiver and castoreum absolute)…

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The Christian Dior Poisons, part 1: Poison and Tendre Poison

Posted by Robin on 17 May 2006 23 Comments

Christian Dior Poison fragrances

Poison was launched by Christian Dior in 1985. The fragrance was intended to revitalize the brand’s fragrance offerings, which had taken on a distinctly old-fashioned aura — before the release of Poison, the brand’s biggest seller was the 1947 fragrance Miss Dior.

Poison represented a break with Dior’s past in more ways than one. It was considerably more expensive than the fragrances which preceeded it in the Dior line, and had a more modern, youthful image. The name, however, is what caused most of the early controversy. Maurice Roger, the president of Parfums Christian Dior, noted at the time:

Finally, I realized you can afford to be a little controversial as long as your product is noble. There are some 56 launches a year in Europe and some 35 in the U.S. That’s a lot of noise….

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