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Browsing by tag: edmond roudnitska

The road of beauty and art

Posted by Robin on 15 November 2009 10 Comments

To judge a perfume is, above all else, a matter of taste. Taste evolves under the influence of the environment, but this fact must not prohibit judging the environment. Taste evolves chiefly with the acquisition of learning, with the knowledge of facts and of aesthetic accomplishments, which makes it possible to analyze them and to provoke instructive comparisons. It is thus that each of us can progress along the road of beauty and of art. To deny the usefulness of this training would be like refusing to admit that a symphony is better appreciated after one has studied music.

— Perfumer Edmond Roudnitska, in Concerning the Circumstances Favorable to the Creation of an Original Perfume, an article which originally appeared in the April/May 1984 issue of Perfumer & Flavorist. It is available for download in PDF form at Anya's Garden.

No man capable of launching a Chanel No. 5

Posted by Robin on 26 October 2009 13 Comments

I do not think it is the creative capacity that is lacking, or the capacity for understanding on the part of the public (which remains what it has always been). What is in process of petering out is the capacity for starting something. It is really responsible people who are lacking, and it seems that to-day there is no man capable of launching a Chanel No. 5.

— Perfumer Edmond Roudnitska in Where Are We Going?, an English translation of a talk given in November 1967. You can download the paper in PDF form at Anya's Garden.

Perfume review: Rochas Femme, Vintage & New

Posted by Angela on 18 December 2006 66 Comments

Rochas Femme, print advert

I’m staring at my bottle of Rochas Femme right now, and try as I might, I can’t see its reputed resemblance to Mae West. To me, it looks a lot more like Mighty Mouse. Not only does Femme’s bottle not look like Mae West, but its fragrance wings past the fusty, comic actress and lands straight on Marilyn Monroe: Marilyn as she rises from an afternoon nap, intimate, warm, hair mussed.

Femme smells voluptuous and intensely personal. It is the smell of your mother on her still-warm bed when you were a girl, or the scent that a maid in a posh resort shakes from the sheets every day…

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Perfume books: Le Parfum by Edmond Roudnitska

Posted by Marcello on 12 June 2006 7 Comments

Edmond Roudnitska Le ParfumIf you read French, you may be familiar with that excellent series of cheap booklets published by Presses Universitaires de France called “Que sais-je?”. Each volume in this encyclopaedic collection covers a specific subject, and the good news is: there's one about perfume too! None other than Edmond Roudnitska is the author of this little marvel, first published in 1980 and simply entitled Le Parfum. Unfortunately there's bad news too: it's not available in English.

Most generic perfume books focus on production methods, raw materials, and the history of perfumery. Roudnitska's approach is rather unique, in that he explores perfumery from an aesthetic point of view…

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Fragrance review: Coty Muguet des Bois

Posted by Robin on 28 April 2005 19 Comments

Coty Muguet des Bois fragrance

If you are looking for a lily of the valley fragrance and don’t care for Diorissimo, Muguet des Bois by Coty is worth a try. I have not been able to find a list of the notes online, but this is a soliflore and I don’t smell any notes other than lily of the valley with a touch of green. It is a sweeter, cleaner, less sparkling fragrance than Diorissimo, and has a slight hint of soap…

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