Some fragrances from that period seem to have been designed with smoke in mind to be mixed at the time of use, one half of some ambient gin and tonic. It was as if the composed smell needed an audience: perfume supplied the music, smoke the crowd noises.
— From Jasmin et Cigarette, Luca Turin’s latest column at NZZ Folio.
[Daniela] Andrier explained at the fragrance’s launch that she took inspiration from the soap form of Infusion d’Iris…
Giorgio Armani will launch the masculine counterpart to 2007's Emporio Armani Diamonds For Women this August. Emporio Armani Diamonds for Men aims for a young audience, and is fronted by actor Josh Hartnett.
The woody gourmand fragrance was developed by perfumer Jacques Cavallier and features notes of bergamot, gaïac, cedarwoods, vetiver, Szechuan pepper, cocoa and ambroxan…
Prada has launched three more fragrances in their Exclusive series, which can be found at Prada boutiques and selected department stores. Reportedly the recent releases, No. 8 Opoponax, No. 9 Benjoin and No. 10 Myrrhe, will be the last in the series.
No. 8 Opoponax ~ “a soft touch of bergamot refreshes the warm blend of oppoponax in essence as well as in resinoide, cistus, santal and amber.”
No. 9 Benjoin ~ “the bitter orange tree (bigaradier) allies with the resinous sweet balsamic scent of benzoin enhanced by vanilla and musk.”…
The iris note is very 'faceted'. I've been working on it for years. It's very difficult if you work with iris not to be overly rooty, not to overdo an earthy feeling or get too powdery. Like when you look at an Impressionist painting, it's about how you contrast the shadows and the light so that something appears more airy and more delightful than it otherwise might.
What I will say is that this fragrance is composed of traditional ingredients of a high-end quality, yet the result is something innovative, something that wasn't there before.
— Perfumer Daniela Andrier on Prada Infusion d'Iris, quoted in Purple Haze in today's Belfast Telegraph (link no longer working, sorry).
When people ask me how I come up with a formula for a new perfume, I’m not sure I know myself. It’s like a wild bird that sings only when nobody’s watching. In a way, perfumery is like other creative processes, such as writing or painting, where you might have a theme or know what colours you’re going to use, but where there’s still that element of magic and it just comes out of you.
— Perfumer Daniela Andrier, quoted in A Life in the Day: Daniela Andrier in the UK Times Online.
The perfume wardrobe may be a sign of sluttishness or connoisseurship: of the duty-free dabbler or the addict who eschews a single fix for multiple mainlining.
— Signature scents are out, perfume wardrobes are in. Columnist Hannah Betts investigates in Scents of self.