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Browsing by tag: daniela andrier

Prada Candy ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 17 August 2011 140 Comments

Prada Candy fragrance advert

This scent is more feminine and more excessive than past launches. It has an explosion of joie de vivre that is quite unique for us, and uses a lot more color…

Up until now, we have explored the more traditional and classic side of Prada, but the brand is much more than that.1

Prada Candy incarnates the new Prada woman: she’s daring, sensual, full of life and implosive. The perfume is named after this seductive and joyful girl who is running wild.

The first two statements about the new Prada Candy were made by representatives from Puig, the company that holds the fragrance license for Prada. The third is from the scent’s description at Neiman Marcus, which has exclusive rights on the fragrance (for the US, anyway) until October. If a seductive and joyful girl running wild — and flashing her hot pink undies, no less — doesn’t sound like the Prada that perfumistas know and love, hey, the times they are a-‘changin, and you probably already guessed that from the name and the packaging and the advertising, all of which is a departure from the muted elegance the perfume house has long been known for.

So I figured I’d detest Prada Candy, but I was pleasantly surprised. They stuck with perfumer Daniela Andrier, who developed most of the Prada fragrance line, and she’s done something that might reasonably be called Candy without being a complete pander-to-the-masses sellout. In fact, while I don’t adore Candy, and it isn’t going straight onto my buy list, I enjoyed wearing it considerably more than the last two feminine efforts from Prada…

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Maison Martin Margiela Untitled ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 26 April 2011 95 Comments

Maison Martin Margiela UntitledMaison Martin Margiela UntitledMaison Martin Margiela Untitled

Untitled, the debut fragrance from the Diesel-owned fashion house Maison Martin Margiela, launched last year. It took its own sweet time getting to the US, and when it finally got here, it was (and so far as I know, still is) exclusive to Saks, which means it has taken me very nearly forever to try it. And now that I have, well, it’s quite nice but I am not weeping inconsolably over the lost time. (There, now you needn’t read the rest of the review).

The original newsletter from Colette announcing the fragrance noted that it “includes of course the codes of the brand, while cultivating its personality”. I know little enough about the codes of the Maison Martin Margiela brand, other than the obvious: they’re too hip to pander to the sort of consumers who want things like, say, names on their fragrances; they’re fashionably arty; and they do a darned nice minimalist bottle. Vogue helpfully informs me that the “biggest insult to a Maison Martin Margiela runway collection is that it’s wearable.”

The perfume, sorry to say, or perhaps, not sorry to say, isn’t really much of a fit with all that…

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Maison Martin Margiela Untitled L’Eau ~ new fragrance

Posted by Robin on 12 April 2011 24 Comments

Maison Martin Margiela Untitled L'Eau

Maison Martin Margiela is launching Untitled L’Eau, a fresher follow-up to last year’s Maison Martin Margiela Untitled…

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Prada Infusion de Rose ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 8 April 2011 76 Comments

rose first halfrose second half

I want to love the Ephemeral Infusions series from Prada.1 Infusion d’Iris, the fragrance that inspired the series, is one of my favorite scents, and the packaging, as always from Prada, is picture-perfect. You could almost get me to buy them just for the gorgeous outer boxes (see below), and the perfectly-aligned, dyed-to-match fabric covering the caps.

So I do try to love them. But the “veil of scent” / watercolor concept that worked so well in Infusion d’Iris (and in Prada L’Eau Ambrée, although it is not part of this series) has just seemed, well, wimpy, and dull, in the scents that followed (Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger, Infusion de Tubéreuse & Infusion de Vétiver). It is not just a case of oh-this-is-really-nice-just-not-me, as it was with yesterday’s Jardin Sur Le Toit, but more wow-this-could-have-been-awesome-but-somehow-it’s-just-not.

Still. I like Infusion d’Iris, and I like Prada, and I like the work of the perfumer, Daniela Andrier. So I was happy to hear that rose was up next…

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Prada Infusion d’Iris Eau de Toilette ~ new fragrance

Posted by Robin on 16 July 2010 49 Comments

Prada Infusion d'Iris Eau de Toilette

Prada will launch a Eau de Toilette version of Infusion d’Iris in August. The new fragrance for women focuses on the iris flower — or “a memory of iris”, since most iris flowers are not scented — instead of the more traditionally used iris root…

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