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Browsing by tag: classic chypre

Yves Saint Laurent Y ~ perfume review

Posted by Angela on 3 May 2007 21 Comments

Yves Saint Laurent Y fragrance for women

I’ve spent years looking for the perfect dress, a dress I can wear in the winter with boots and a sweater, in the summer with sandals, with pumps to business meetings, and out at night with a Miriam Haskell necklace and hand-knit shrug. When wearing this dress, I won’t have to hold in my stomach or worry that my bra straps show. Slide the dress over my head and I’m done. Well, I haven’t found the dress yet, but I think I’ve found its perfume counterpart: Y by Yves Saint Laurent.

Y is a clean, soft green chypre that lays a gentle background. It is quiet and elegant, but still warm, and when you’re wearing it people notice you and not your scent. It stays close to your body. Someone crammed against you in an elevator when you’re wearing Y won’t think of perfume but will think you’re still warm from your morning shower and maybe have clipped a few flowers from the garden for your desk…

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Perfume review: Rochas Femme, Vintage & New

Posted by Angela on 18 December 2006 66 Comments

Rochas Femme, print advert

I’m staring at my bottle of Rochas Femme right now, and try as I might, I can’t see its reputed resemblance to Mae West. To me, it looks a lot more like Mighty Mouse. Not only does Femme’s bottle not look like Mae West, but its fragrance wings past the fusty, comic actress and lands straight on Marilyn Monroe: Marilyn as she rises from an afternoon nap, intimate, warm, hair mussed.

Femme smells voluptuous and intensely personal. It is the smell of your mother on her still-warm bed when you were a girl, or the scent that a maid in a posh resort shakes from the sheets every day…

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Chanel Cristalle fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 11 July 2006 97 Comments

Chanel Cristalle Eau de ToiletteChanel Cristalle Eau de Parfum

I am a creature of habit. To this day, I prefer Roger Moore to Sean Connery because Roger Moore was the James Bond I grew up with. Sean Connery may be better, but he’ll never be Bond to me because I didn’t see his movies until later, and by then, well, he just didn’t look like Bond. Forget about the Bonds who came after Roger Moore, they’re not even worth discussing.

So it is with Cristalle. Chanel introduced the Cristalle fragrance as an Eau de Toilette in 1974. It was developed by perfumer Henri Robert. It was (and is, if you can get your hands on the Eau de Toilette) light, crisp, and sparkling, just a little veil of lemon, fresh herbs and oakmoss with lots of green and a few flower petals thrown in for good measure (other notes include bergamot, jonquil, jasmine, honeysuckle, rosewood, hyacinth and vetiver). I started wearing it in the late 1970s and I adored it. The first spritz was always so bright and sharp, it cut right through the heat and humidity of a Washington, DC summer. The lasting power was negligible, but you can’t get that kind of light, crisp and sparkling and staying power, that is just how it is…

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Caron Alpona ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 29 September 2005 20 Comments

Caron perfume urn

Parfums Caron was established in 1904 by Ernest Daltroff. Alpona, one of Daltroff’s many fragrance creations, launched in 1939, and has notes of lemon, grapefruit, bergamot, rose, orange, jasmine, orchid, thyme, patchouli, myrrh, cedar, sandalwood, musk, and oakmoss.

Alpona starts with citrus fruits, but don’t look for fresh-squeezed juice here — Caron describes the citrus as “crystallized”, and that is exactly what it smells like: sugared preserved fruit…

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Christian Dior Miss Dior perfume review

Posted by Robin on 12 September 2005 39 Comments

Miss Dior, vintage advertMiss Dior, modern advert

Miss Dior was released by Christian Dior in 1947, shortly after the success of his groundbreaking “New Look” collection. It was Dior’s first perfume, and was created by either Paul Vacher or Jean Carles (or possibly both), under the direction of Dior’s childhood friend Serge Heftler-Louiche. The fragrance notes include gardenia, galbanum, clary sage, aldehydes, jasmine, rose, neroli, narcissus, iris, carnation, lily of the valley, patchouli, labdanum, oakmoss, ambergris, sandalwood, vetiver, and leather.

Miss Dior was said to have been influenced by both Chypre de Coty and Vent Vert (see Michael Edwards, Perfume Legends). It starts strong and sharp…

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