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Browsing by tag: christopher sheldrake

Les Exclusifs de Chanel: Bel Respiro fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 19 February 2007 51 Comments

Chanel Bel Respiro perfumeChanel Bel Respiro perfumeChanel Bel Respiro perfume

Bel Respiro is one of the 10 fragrances from Chanel’s recent entry into the niche perfumery market, the Les Exclusifs de Chanel collection. The name Bel Respiro, and the inspiration for the scent, comes from a country house outside Paris that Coco Chanel owned in the 1920s. Bel Respiro was created by Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Jacques Polge, and the notes are rumored to include crushed leaves, rosemary, thyme, rose, lilac, hyacinth, green tea, aromatic grasses, myrrh and leather.

The frenzy over the Les Exclusifs reached a fever pitch in the weeks before they launched — among perfumistas, anyway. I’m guessing the rest of the world is only just barely aware of their existence. At any rate, by the time my samples arrived, I was reluctant to try them at all. How could they possibly live up to the hype? When curiosity finally got the better of me, Bel Respiro was the first thing I reached for. A fragrance “intended to evoke stems, leaves and springtime” (Women’s Wear Daily, 12/22/06) seemed bound to please.

As it turns out, Bel Respiro was a good place to start…

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Serge Lutens Sa Majeste la Rose ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 5 September 2006 32 Comments

pink rose

Someone asked in the comments to last week’s review of Chypre Rouge if I thought that the Serge Lutens fragrances were an acquired taste, and I answered yes, sort of. It isn’t that any special knowledge is required to appreciate them: if special knowledge was required, I’d be no more likely to appreciate them than anyone else. But they do not, by and large, try to appeal to a large audience. If all you are familiar with is the standard department store fare, Serge Lutens may challenge your idea of what a personal fragrance ought to smell like. They aren’t all “pretty” in the conventional sense, and a few of them qualify as downright odd.

If you are a serious fragrance fanatic, odd quickly becomes a good thing; after all, it sometimes seems like most everything else on the perfume market was dispensed from the same vat. But odd in itself obviously isn’t enough, and it certainly doesn’t account for the superstar cult status accorded to Serge Lutens — how many other perfume lines have their own fan sites? There is nothing else as guaranteed to cause a flurry of anticipation on the fragrance forums and blogs as the announcement that a new Serge Lutens fragrance is due for release.

It is hard to explain the allure of the line to someone who hasn’t smelled any of the fragrances, and for that matter, I don’t think it is easy to understand until you’ve tried quite a few…

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Chypre Rouge by Serge Lutens ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 30 August 2006 66 Comments

Serge Lutens Chypre Rouge perfume

Chypre Rouge is the latest fragrance release from Serge Lutens, and happily for those of us in the United States, it is in the export line so you won’t have to jump through hoops to get your hands on it. It was created by perfumer Christopher Sheldrake, and the notes include thyme, pine needles, pecans, fruit gums, honey, beeswax, jasmine, patchouli, amber, vanilla, moss and musks.

Like so many other Serge Lutens compositions, Chypre Rouge starts with something like stewed spiced fruit, here underscored with pine needles, toasted nuts, and something that smells like a sweet dessert wine. It is both sweet and heavy, and while the notes list only thyme, the curry spices that so frequently appear in the Serge Lutens line are very much present in Chypre Rouge; if, as advertised, it “was inspired by Serge Lutens’s memories of fall in his native Vendée region of western France” (via osmoz), the memories would seem to be filtered through his more recent experiences in Marrakech…

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Serge Lutens Chypre Rouge: new fragrance

Posted by Robin on 1 August 2006 2 Comments

Serge Lutens Chypre Rouge fragranceMore on the recently launched Chypre Rouge fragrance by Serge Lutens: it “was inspired by Serge Lutens’s memories of fall in his native Vendée region of western France”, and notes include thyme, pine needles, honey, beeswax, jasmine, fruit gums, patchouli, moss, amber, musks and vanilla…

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Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 25 April 2006 31 Comments

Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier perfumeSerge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier perfume

Fleurs de Citronnier was launched in 2004 by Serge Lutens, who founded his eponymous line in Paris in 1992. The fragrance was created by perfumer Chris Sheldrake, and has notes of lemon tree blossoms and petitgrain, neroli, honey, tuberose, nutmeg, styrax, iris and musk.

Serge Lutens, alone among niche perfume houses, never disappoints me. It is not that I love all of the perfumes in the line (there are several that I cannot stand); nor is it because he is known for creating such eminently wearable fragrances (even some of my favorites, like Miel de Bois, can hardly be characterized as wearable). Rather, it is because the fragrances are almost without exception intriguing…

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