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Browsing by tag: christopher sheldrake

Serge Lutens A La Nuit perfume review

Posted by Robin on 14 May 2007 58 Comments

Jasmine on black

The weather here is perfect, at last. The days have been warm and sunny, but not too hot. The nights have been just cool enough that you need something long sleeved, and it is on spring nights such as these that I tend to reach for the headier white florals. Last night’s fragrance: A La Nuit, by Serge Lutens. Like most all the line, it was developed by perfumer Christopher Sheldrake, and the notes include jasmine (Egyptian, Indian, Moroccan), green shoots, cloves, white honey, benzoin and musk.

My testing notes from the first time I tried A La Nuit say quite simply: “your basic death by jasmine”, and that is entirely accurate, I think, for the top notes, which are as close to being buried alive in flower petals as anything else I can think of…

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Serge Lutens Rousse ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 15 March 2007 31 Comments

Serge Lutens Rousse

Rousse is the latest addition to the export line from Serge Lutens. It was created by perfumer Chris Sheldrake, and the notes are mandarin, cinnamon, cloves, spices, floral & aromatic notes, fruit, cinnamon wood, precious woods, amber, musk and vanilla.

Early reports that Rousse was based on cinnamon and inspired by Serge Lutens’ memories of his grandmother “baking and making jam” (via osmoz) suggested that it might turn out to be a spicy gourmand, but it is no such thing, in fact, it is less foody than Cèdre (spiced apple cider) or the many from the line that start with heavy doses of stewed spiced fruits (Chypre Rouge, Santal Blanc).

To be sure, cinnamon is the star of the show here…

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Serge Lutens Mandarine Mandarin ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 14 March 2007 24 Comments

Serge Lutens Mandarine Mandarin perfume

Mandarine Mandarin was launched by Serge Lutens last year; like most of the line, it was created in collaboration with perfumer Christopher Sheldrake. The notes include Chinese orange, nutmeg, clove, candied mandarin, orange peel, smoky tea, rock rose, labdanum, tonka bean, musk and ambergris.

Out of the last handful of releases from Serge Lutens, there has only been one I’ve been really dying to own, and that is the much maligned Miel de Bois. The rest (Borneo 1834, Cedre, Gris Clair, Chypre Rouge), well, it isn’t that I didn’t like them (ok, I didn’t like Borneo at all) so much as that I didn’t adore them enough to want a bottle. They have all been interesting, mind you, I just don’t adore any of them.

Mandarine Mandarin, happily or not (my wallet is certainly pleased) falls into that category…

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Chanel 31 Rue Cambon, some final thoughts on the Les Exclusifs, and a little poll

Posted by Robin on 12 March 2007 77 Comments

Chanel 31 rue Cambon fragrance, Les ExclusifsCoco Chanel apartment at 31 Rue Cambon

Coco Chanel lived at the Ritz for most of her life, but she kept an apartment above her boutique at 31 Rue Cambon “as a place to house her own clothes and host dinner parties” (via travelandleisure):

The décor is ornate and baroque with the artefacts ranging from lacquered Coromandel screens with Chinese paintings to elaborate life size models of deer ranged in front of the fire place. The mirrors have elaborate oversize frames while the chandeliers replicate the double “C” symbol used as a brand logo in most products including bags and belts. Everything in the rooms reflects the concept of duality in her products with nearly each antique or display piece having a twin beside it. (via thehindu)

31 Rue Cambon, the apartment’s namesake fragrance from the recent Les Exclusifs collection, is likewise ornate…

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Les Exclusifs de Chanel: 28 La Pausa fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 20 February 2007 35 Comments

Chanel 28 La Pausa perfumeChanel 28 La Pausa perfumeChanel 28 La Pausa perfume

28 La Pausa, like yesterday’s subject, Bel Respiro, is one of the new niche fragrances from Chanel’s Les Exclusifs de Chanel. It was also named for one of Coco Chanel’s houses, in this case, an estate on the French Riviera outside Roquebrune Cap Martin:

Chanel spent her vacations at La Pausa, surrounded by friends including the Duke of Westminster, Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau, in an atmosphere of happy relaxation and refinement. “Irises grew in the garden and the iris is also a very round, calm and soft fragrance,” [perfumer Christopher] Sheldrake says. (via theaustralian)

I have not seen a list of notes anywhere, but it doesn’t matter: 28 La Pausa is all about iris, and if you love iris as I do, it is a must-try…

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