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Browsing by tag: cheap thrills

The Balenciaga Sisters: Rumba and Talisman fragrances

Posted by Angela on 29 August 2006 43 Comments

Balenciaga Rumba perfumeBalenciaga Talisman perfume

When summer turns to fall, I wait as long as I can to turn on the furnace. Usually the afternoons will warm up enough that I can wear a sweater in the morning and be fine. But finally the time comes when I dig out the fleece-lined slippers, pad my way to the thermostat, and hold my breath as my ancient furnace kicks in. Within a few minutes the living room fills with warm air and the smell of the first heater run of the year: dust and hot metal. Add a slice of toast with jam, imagine yourself in an ancient church, and presto! you have Balenciaga Rumba perfume.

Rumba is big and deep, and is a strange but compelling combination of a hot electric burner, fruit, and beeswax. Even as an Eau de Toilette, Rumba has maximum sillage. I’m tempted to say that it’s juicy, but its fruit — and there’s lots of it — quickly turns to something richer, like Madeira. Rumba’s flowers appear then disappear then gently reappear amidst the churchy wood, as if they’re blowing in from a night garden. I’ve read reviews of Rumba that compare it to a nightclub, and I imagine a Cuban bar with an outdoor seating area and a palm reader in the corner ready to tell you your fate while you sip your second El Floridita…

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Home fragrance: L'Occitane Amber Home Perfume Spray

Posted by Kevin on 27 August 2006 9 Comments

L'Occitane Amber home fragrance

I have always loved the smell of amber in perfumery. Ages ago, I was told by a not-very-well-informed pharmacist-herbalist that amber aroma came from a tree — it was “just the resin” of a fragrant plant from India. I took him at his word until I went into a Beverly Hills aromatherapy boutique and asked for amber essential oil. The clerk grimaced and said: “There is no such thing.” Abashed, I did not ask for an explanation and one was not offered. Investigations commenced.

The scent of “amber” (as most of us know it) is an Indian creation — a blend of fragrant oils, waxes, gums, resins and powders. Amber is used in Ayurvedic medicine as a calming agent; its use relaxes one for enlightening meditation or…good sex. This fragrance blend may have been created to mimic the scent of rare and expensive ambergris — thus the name “amber” (derived from the Arabic word “anbar”, meaning “ambergris”). Amber recipes vary widely, but most contain benzoin, sandalwood, patchouli, and frankincense; myrrh, vetiver, agarwood, cedarwood, and any number of spices and floral notes may be added to the mix…

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Hermes Eau d’Orange Verte & Concentre d’Orange Verte: fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 25 July 2006 12 Comments

Hermes Eau d'Orange Verte

Hermès introduced Eau d’Orange Verte in 1979 (the original name was Eau de Cologne d’Hermès; it was renamed Eau d’Orange Verte in 1997). It was created by perfumer Francoise Caron and has notes of bergamot, lemon, mandarin, mint, jasmine, orange blossom, patchouli, moss and cedar.

Eau d’Orange Verte is a citrus chypre, along the lines of Ô de Lancôme or Eau de Rochas. It starts with a slap of citrus, very sharp and acidic. The sharpness fades into a very dry orange under a heavy veil of herbal green and what smells to me like petitgrain. There is a whisper of dry florals, and a lovely mossy woods base.

It is currently marketed as a unisex fragrance, but I believe it was originally introduced as a men’s. When I first tried it several years ago, I thought it too masculine to wear…

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He Says/She Says: Yves Saint Laurent M7

Posted by Robin on 30 May 2006 34 Comments

Yves Saint Laurent M7 fragrance for men

Today Marlen and I are debating the merits of M7, the fragrance launched by Yves Saint Laurent in 2002. It was the line’s seventh fragrance for men, and the first under the creative direction of designer Tom Ford. M7 was created by perfumers Jacques Cavallier and Alberto Morillas, and includes notes of agarwood, Haitian vetiver, bergamot, mandarin, rosemary, amber and musk.

He says: I first tested M7 on a warm spring day in Kyoto and immediately thought, “Well this isn’t the best time of year to launch this.” The scent was heavy and rich, masculine and earthy. The most prominent feature was the centerpiece of vetiver…

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The Christian Dior Poisons, part 3: Pure Poison

Posted by Robin on 19 May 2006 48 Comments

Pure Poison perfume by Christian Dior

Pure Poison was launched by Christian Dior in 2004, 6 years after Hypnotic Poison and nearly 20 years after the original Poison fragrance. It was created by perfumers Carlos Benaïm, Dominique Ropion and Olivier Polge, and has notes of jasmine, sweet orange, bergamot, mandarin, orange blossom, gardenia, sandalwood, musk and white amber.

Pure Poison attempts to appeal to modern sensibilities (and modern tastes in fragrance) while hanging on to the original conceit of Poison as the venom to catch your man:

Pure Poison — though very different from the original Poison, which launched in 1985 — is a modern spin on the same concept. It is designed to appeal to young women of the 21st century who are passionate, down to earth and able to turn their wildest dreams into reality, but lack the selfish front that characterised the 1980s. (via Cosmetics International; 7/9/2004)

It is rather a stretch conceptually: one might ask whether a down to earth, emotionally generous woman needs or wants a fragrance called Poison at all. For that matter, the fragrance itself cannot hope to live up to its name, for pure it might be, but there is nothing even remotely venomous about it…

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