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Browsing by tag: bertrand duchaufour

L’Artisan Poivre Piquant & Piment Brulant ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 19 December 2006 24 Comments

L'Artisan Les Epices de la Passion fragrances

L’Artisan introduced Les Epices de la Passion, a coffret with three spiced “love potions”, in 2002. I’ve been having an on-again, off-again love affair with Safran Troublant since I first smelled it (more about that tomorrow), but the other two fragrances, Piment Brûlant and Poivre Piquant, I pretty much ignored after trying them briefly on test strips some time ago. Both scents were created by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, and since he is seriously in the running for my own little parallel-universe award for Perfumer of the Year (and I’m sure he is quite excited about it too), I thought it would be worth giving them more serious attention.

Piment Brûlant was inspired by the Aztec drink xocolatl, a bitter mixture of chocolate and cornmeal spiked with chili peppers, cinnamon, achiote and other spices; the Aztec emperor Montezuma reputedly drank up to 50 cups every day from a golden goblet…

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Bois d’Ombrie & Sienne l’Hiver: new fragrances from Eau d’Italie

Posted by Robin on 21 October 2006 Leave a Comment

Eau d'Italie Bois d'Ombrie fragranceEau d’Italie has launched two new fragrances, Bois d’Ombrie and Sienne l’Hiver, both developed by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour:

Bois d’Ombrie is named for Umbria, and features whiskey accord, cognac accord, wild carrot, iris, copahu balm, myrrh, leather, opoponax, patchouli, tobacco and vetiver…

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Comme des Garcons Harissa & Sequoia, from series 2: Red ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 18 October 2006 17 Comments

Comme des Garcons Harissa & Sequoia fragrances

Red was the second series of fragrances launched by Comme des Garçons, following the now sadly discontinued Leaves series. It debuted in 2001 with 5 fragrances, all revolving around the theme, obviously, of things that are or might be red. The series includes Harissa, Sequoia, Palisander, Carnation and Rose. Harissa and Sequoia are both by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour (who also created Monday’s Dzongkha and Tuesday’s Méchant Loup) and those are the two under consideration today.

Harissa is named for the North African spice mixture; other fragrance notes include blood orange, red chili pepper, angelica, saffron, nutmeg, cardamon and tomato. The top notes are muy fabuloso: basically lots of orange and lots of hot pepper. As it dries down, other spice notes join in, and while cinnamon is not listed and there probably isn’t any, after 15 minutes or so it reminds me very much of Red Hots melting in fresh orange juice…

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L’Artisan Mechant Loup fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 17 October 2006 33 Comments

L'Artisan Mechant Loup fragrance Charmer Trio

L’Artisan launched Méchant Loup in 1997. Like yesterday’s Dzongkha, it was created by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour; it is usually described as a “deep, spicy, woodsy scent” and the notes include pepper, star anise, licorice, sandalwood, honey, hazelnut, myrrh, tonka bean and cedar.

The L’Artisan website translates “Méchant Loup” as Big Bad Wolf, and it is very nearly just that. It has a kind of roasted hazelnut and burnt sugar accord that is vaguely reminiscent of Hermès Vetiver Tonka, but Méchant Loup is darker and richer, and the hazelnut mingles with honeyed woods, musty dried leaves and a touch of something that smells like whiskey and cigar smoke and old leather chairs…

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L’Artisan Dzongkha ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 16 October 2006 54 Comments

Dzongkha is the third fragrance in the L’Artisan Parfumeur travel series that includes Bois Farine and Timbuktu. Dzongkha was developed by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, and was inspired by the Dzongs of Bhutan. The fragrance notes include peony, lychee, cardamom, tea with milk, vetiver, incense, cypriol (a grass used to make papyrus), cedar, leather and iris.

Dzongkha was one of the few fragrances that I was really looking forward to this year, and I am happy to report that it did not disappoint, in fact, I like it even better than I expected. It is heavily dominated by iris, one of my favorite notes; iris is listed in the heart and base notes but is evident almost from the first, along with sweet floral notes that I would never have identified as peony. For that matter, I wouldn’t have picked out the lychee either…

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